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Ripping 36 Degree Mitre9/11
I'm building an asymmetrical corner cabinet where one of the face frame stiles needs to be ripped at a 36 degree angle. I know I *can* run the piece vertically against the tablesaw fence, but this seems unsafe. Anyone have a better way?
Nothing unsafe about running vertically. Use a power feeder if it bothers you.
Thanks, Rich. Yeah, probably just overthinking it. I've done it this way before, but it always seems a bit sketchy.
If no power feeder on hand, then make a couple of feather boards that can be clamped to the table to hold the part to the fence and vertical. Just do not involve the offall in the feather board's holding.
No need to change your name to Stumpy.
Already run & done! Did it like David suggested and started with a wider than needed piece of wood. Came out fine. All digits intact.
After a little scratch rough cutting 1000 mdf wainscotting panels.The real problem was heaps of slippery mdf dust, not technique. I gave it a bit more thought. We now have stick of wood roughly 2 x 4 screwed to a small sheet of 3/4" ply. It is thick enough that you can bury the blade when tilted so it is impossible to hit the blade. This rig is clamped to the edge of the table facing the fence. It can essentially be one length because the blade is stationary.
The typical finger boards are screwed to the top of the 2 x 4. Most importantly you should have a 3/4" x 6" sub fence screwed to your table saw fence.
I have had zero fear since using these methods. You cannot get hurt. You cannot see the blade, let alone hit it.
We've used something similar to Adam's method many times in the past. You just clamp a board to the tablesaw fence and bury the blade into the board.
You do, however, sometimes want to do a relief cut so that material does not get bound between the blade and board. Too much pressure here will send a scrap shooting back like an arrow.
We used to also have a dedicated table saw with a powerfeed for mitering end panels to faceframes.
On that saw we added an auxiliary plywood table to the top of tablesaw. This elevation produced clearance so that the offcut would not bind between blade and fence.
We now do this "A" face down on a dedicated shaper. Orienting it with "A" face down allows you to cut to the zero point and thickness of board does not matter.
Click the link below to download the file included with this post.
My guard design is for a left tilting saw.
In your case I would set the blade to 54 degrees(table to blade). Install a brand new zero clearance plate. Place the fence on top of the plate and slowly cut thru the plate until the minimum height is required(1 tooth above thickness). Add a 3/4 x 6" sub fence to your fence.
Now you know where the blade will come thru the table. Also the stile is less likely to fall into the blade.Push the fence right up to the kerf. Add some finger boards & push stick. Cut your stile about 1 foot longer to give you something to hang onto or mess up.
Your drawing shows a setup almost guaranteed to produce kickback. The lower edge of the sacificial fence board needs to be higher than the cutoff to be safe.
You can also do this on planer by making a cradle to hold the stock at the correct angle.
You are right about the kickback.
We used to have a dedicated table saw with an additional table surface that elevated the lumber. This allowed the drop off to fall to an area that did not bind.
For a one-off cut I would not add the auxiliary table surface. I would just make sure nobody was standing behind the cut.
It takes no longer to do a safe setup than what you show, so why not? Just clamp the auxiliary fence on 3/32" below the stock height and raise the blade into it.
That's a good idea Kevin.
I'm guessing that you could pre-cut the miter at 45 degrees so when you run it at the final angle, the offcut would not get jammed up under the blade. BTW, installed the cabinet on Friday and it came out fine. Thanks for all the input. I'm filing it away for next time.