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Do any of you guys us contact cement to stick wood backed veneers on mdf or plywood? We r an architectural woodshop and have used contact for many years now. We scrape the heck out of it and have never had any major problems,
We do not do any historical repairs bit we do a lot of odd shapes that would mot fit in a bag.
Do all u guys use other glues, if so why. Thanks for feedback
I rarely use contact cement for veneering, mostly because I build heirloom pieces and don't trust the bond over the long haul. This is particularly true if the work will be subject to any heating, for example direct sunlight. Having said this, I have to admit I have used it in the past and have experienced no failures. Consider the cost of a comeback, both to your wallet and your reputation. Is it worth the risk?
Contact cement I would say is responsible for the poor public reputation of veneered furniture. The bond is simply not rigid enough for veneer. I won't say I've never done it, but I'll never do it again. When I was too young to know better I did a curved headboard, which is inconveniently very near my head every night. No, the veneer hasn't come off, but it looks like crap. The entire surface is uniformly covered in what looks like finish crazing, but its an oil finish so that's impossible. You can also feel the seasonal changes around the edges of the piece where the veneer becomes a bit proud of the edgebanding.
I used the contact cement method over the last few years, never again. Just switched to cold press veneer glue. I found both Titebond and Better Bond brands worked very well. The hard glue joint is so much better. Even flush trimming after was easier then the contact cement bond. Plus you don't have to worry about what finish you use, as some will release contact cement.
Had the same issue with pieces being too large for a vacuum bag and went with a clamping caul setup. Worked great. Look up Bowclamp or clamping cauls on you tube and you'll get the basic idea to see if it's right for your project.
I have been using the 3M Fastbond 30NF Contact for several years now. Works very well for me while I'm in my clients home refacing their kitchen and bath cabinets.
The only way contact cement and veneer will work is if the veneer is backed with phenolic. nothing else will work.
Has anyone had any experience with applying veneer, in this case Ipe, to both sides of an exterior flat panel fiberglass door. We have tried but there seems to be expansion contraction problems with the fiberglass overpowering the ability of the Ipe to keep up. The doors are exosed to full sun. We applied a catalysed exterior urethane and it is checking and cracking along with the veneer. This has all taken place over a couple of weeks time.