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Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not

8/16/21       
Gene Davis

A frameless sinkbase gets its left, right, and deck front edge taped. But the front stile, the stretcher piece behind the false drawerfront, what are you doing to get tape-matching texture at the top and bottom edges, where one can see the front over and under the false drawerfront?


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8/16/21       #2: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Bruce H

I would make that piece out of the finish material. The second thing I would do is eliminate the false front and run the doors all the way to the top.

8/16/21       #3: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

Run edge banded stretchers there carcass material

8/16/21       #4: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Gene Davis

The issue with running on-flat stretchers, is that the sink comes so close to the front edge of the cabinet the stretchers get insanely chopped.

And you need something across there to brace the front end of the box,

So I might do a thing where the top 3/4" of the upright stretcher is a void, as well as the bottom 3/4", and the fronts/trim package will have a piece of finished species stock we can rip and tack onto the top and bottom.

Full height doors don't seem right, they expose all that sink and plumbing when opened, and take away the linear look of the drawerfront line.

8/16/21       #5: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Gene Davis

Then there's this: it's all precision cut via CNC, and we can inset that front stretcher piece by 0.5 mm and field-apply edgeband to the top and bottom edges of the part.

8/16/21       #6: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Oggie  Member

I do what Bruce says: just cut that piece of the same material the fronts are made of.

You could also glue two strips of matching edgebanding exactly like you highlighted on your drawing, using double sided adhesive tape.

8/16/21       #7: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Leo G Member

Do a vertical stretcher the same size as the drawer or a bit bigger for reveals. That way you have strength for counter support, the stretcher doesn't get in the way from the sink and you only need to edge band the bottom edge.

Won't work if you plan on using a flip out sponge storage area.

8/17/21       #8: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

When i said conventional sttetches banded meant with the panel as well as its drawn out of carcass material. You have bander applied banding where needed and chopping into the stretcher us no issue.

8/17/21       #9: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Gene Davis

OK and thanks for the responses. I think I've developed a nice solution. See the images.

This is CNC-cut carcase parts, and the parts joinery is "lock tenon" meaning spaced-apart mortise and tenon with zip-screws in the gaps.

The front stretcher part will be edgebanded in the CNC shop on its bottom edge. In the field, using double-sided tape, edgetape will be applied to the top and bottom edges of the front face.

The tape is 0.5 mm thick, and the front stretcher will be positioned such that the edgetape and mounting tape thickness defines the offset, and the result is the edgetape (carcase sides and applied to front) all flushes out.


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8/17/21       #10: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Bruce H

"Full height doors don't seem right, they expose all that sink and plumbing when opened,

Gene, you don't see the plumbing or sink. I have the same spreader you do only it's behind the door and it's made of the finish material. (wouldn't have to be but I like it that way) As for the "look of the drawer front line" There are many full height doors in what I build and find this easier. A false drawer front is left over from face frame days. To each his own.


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8/17/21       #11: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Oggie  Member

Gene,

is the 0.5mm offset necessary?

Real drawer fronts (as well as doors) are ~3mm away from the front edge of the carcass anyway due to hinges or door bumpers.
Seems to me that even a bigger offset than 0.5mm would rather contribute to a more 'natural' look of false drawer front, than the opposite?

8/17/21       #12: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Gene Davis

I've decided that Bruce H is my mentor and guru for this, after seeing his picture and reading his post.

But back to your Q.

My CNC cutter won't cut species. He cuts panel stock. Melamine. Plywood.

So that stretcher piece, being CNC cut so as to have the lock tenons to precision-engage the sides, will be maple plywood finished one side, and the unfinished side will face out and be laminated either with species or a paper product made to be painted.

And the software (eCabs), given the thickness of whatever is being laminated, adjusts the fit accordingly so the face is flush to the edgetape on the sides.

8/18/21       #13: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

All this go around and then incorporating field applied banding with double stick tape is completely bass ackwards to me. Makes zero sense.

8/18/21       #14: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Matt

We've tried nearly every version of this. The most sensible option for happy clients and efficient production is to make that top stretcher out of the same thing the doors are, and finish it with the doors. It's only a single piece of plywood going through the finish booth, no big deal.

I do NOT like false fronts. I think they look ridiculous, so in my own kitchen I did full height doors. It looks much nicer, but that's just me. I used the same tall, vertical stretcher that I would have used on a false front, so the sink is totally hidden behind it.

Doing the full height doors along with that stretcher looks the best IMO in most cases, but it is NOT leaner/quicker than doing a false front. You have a couple things to consider doing full height doors.

1) The top hinge cup needs to be moved down several inches to accomodate that tall vertical stretcher. I did that in my kitchen and have no regrets.

2) You need to be sure the knob/pull's screw head doesn't leave a mark on that stretcher over time. Door bumpers in my kitchen have shrunk a little and repeated closings have left a tiny mark where the screw head nicks into it. In production I usually countersink that screw just a little.

8/18/21       #15: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Leo G Member

Make the false front thicker to be in the same plane as the doors.

8/18/21       #16: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Gene Davis

What is done about the stretcher in a CNC cut job when the fronts are all knotty pine?

Laminate the face of the stretcher in knotty pine?

8/18/21       #17: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

You would just run a knotty pine edge band (but it would have no knots) wouldnt you?

https://edgecoinc.com/product/knotty-pine-no-knots-w285-panolam-edge-banding/

8/18/21       #18: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

This is the way we do sink bases with false fronts (mostly commercial) and what I was mentioning before re: conventional stretchers. The carcass material panel behind the false front carries the load for the stretcher getting hogged out in the field but in the shop all your construction remains standard, all banding comes off the bander, no special parts for one box (other than the stretchers are doweled to the apron behind the false front), no double stick tape, nada.

Its all personal preference but as stated, the full height doors are a total disruption and, to me at least, when they are in with standard door/drawer cabinets adjacent they look just as bad as a false front.


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8/18/21       #19: Frameless sinkbase: edgetape or not ...
Mark B

P.S., Didnt mean Bruce's image looked bad, beautiful. I guess its just what works on the job. In my world full height doors on sink bases wouldnt go over too well.


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