Hello all hope your doing great i have a project that require cutting and grooving in mdf 18mm design as the picture below i am using a compression 2flut bit for cutting and grooving any suggestions about changing this type of bits

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I wouldnt be wasting time with a compression if thats just straight MDF. Id be running an up spiral or if that doesnt behave on your top surface or with the material your running a down spiral. No idea if your vacuum hold down, screwed down, or what. A compression is a waste on MDF in my opinion. Even a straight 2 flute tool (brazed) would be fine.

I would not use a straight flute on MDF. Chip evacuation is paramount with MDF. Without good chip removal bits will dull in seconds with the heat build-up. Up spiral two flute.
Your biggest problem will be keeping those slender pieces from breaking free and chattering against the bit. You will probably have to sacrifice nest efficiency to keep a fairly large border around each piece and tab them. Or an onion skin instead of tabs.

I cut miles and miles and miles of 1/4"- 3/4" MDF and run 1/2" shank, 1/4" 2 flute, brazed tooling. Im talking MILES. I have run the same material with up spiral, down spiral, and compared tool life, cut quality, six ways to Sunday. Other than chip evacuation with an up spiral, a 2 flute 1/2" shank 1/4" straight cutter will plow through a hundred sheets in its sleep. I run the up spirals if the parts are large and wont lose vacuum but the wont run anywhere near as long as a 2 flute straight.

Chips in the kerf not getting picked up sucks but Im talking hundreds and hundreds of sheets.

I strongly agree with a couple of the points raised previously.First of all I believe you will find it hard to prevent some of the parts breaking free without a good amount of support being present in the form of tabs.Second,a half decent TCT tool will cope with MDF and helical or compression fomat isn't really necessary.

I will have to revisit straight bits in MDF. Had a bunch of trouble with fire rated board no matter what chipload I tried.

It isn't just the type of board but the tiny pieces under discussion for this project will mean that you can't go tearing into the sheet at a zillion inches per minute because they would break free.For larger pieces that will hold down it still pays to experiment a bit and I have been surprised to find that for some materials,brazed TCT worked better than solid carbide.The things you find when using your own machine sometimes run counter to the generalised recommendations and can be very valuable.

The bottom line is heavy brazed carbide will plow for miles and miles after its dull when brazed to a steel shank. Carbide will cut MDF dull or a very long time with very little effect on cut quality.

A solid carbide tool will dull and deflect and snap.

Ive tried less expensive 1/4" steel shank tools and they snap in no time. The 1/2" shank tools are far stronger, dissipate heat far better, and will cut for ages. Cut one sheet in MDF and then go to hardwood, your dead. But keep your steel shank brazed tools designated for MDF and you can fork lift after lift of MDF to the machine and change tools 1/4 as often.

Cut strategy, thin parts like in the image that are going to vibrate/move well your doing your own math there but I could cut those parts all day long, more, small as possible 3D tabs, that could be clipped off with side cutters, all day long.

I would get an insert flush cut bit for your shaper or router table and then tab and flush trim . If you do this you should be able to keep up with the sheets triming the last cut parts as the next sheet cuts.

Hand routing will be slow, and onion skining will be slow also

My 2 cents .

Even the most experienced DIYers will find cutting plywood to size a daunting task. why? Well, once you cut it out - you can't go back. When cutting sheets such as plywood, accuracy is critical.

18mm hardwood plywood that is strong, durable, and has many different applications. This can be used to build dining tables, desks, media consoles, door panels, coffee tables, and more.

I would recommend getting your router workbench ready with a drop-in flush cutting bit, then use tabs and flush trimming.

Some pictures

If the rotation speed of the engraving knife and the feed speed are not well matched, a large number of burrs and burrs will be generated.