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CNC drill through HPL

5/27/22       
BEN ROBINSON Member

Hello there,
I have gotten loads of information from the site and thought I would try my luck with my question. We manufacture casework commercially. I am trying to get set up to route my doors and drawer fronts on my CNC.
The problem I am running into is the 3/4" lock hole. I cant get a clean cut on the bottom side (the outside of the cabinet). I have worked at other places that have achieved it, but just cant get the right settings to work with me. I have tried a couple different 3/4" bits, but not working out that well. What have you all done to help achieve a good through hole? Slower speeds? Slower feed rates? Higher feed rates? Thanks!

5/27/22       #2: CNC drill through HPL ...
Mark B

I dont know about 3/4" but with smaller holes if Im trying to get a really clean hole (no blow out on the bottom/show face) I run brad point and I set my depths so the knickers on the brad point just barely come short of cutting through the HPL face. This most often leaves a small hole in the center and a the perimeter of the hole barely cut through the HPL and it just pops out when the sheet comes off. Punching through, even with a fresh spoil board, will typically blow out most every time.

With a 3/4" hole why not just waste away the material with an interpolated hole and a smaller tool and skip the drilling? Its not as fast but with so little cover on a lock you'd get every hole bang on.

5/27/22       #3: CNC drill through HPL ...
RichC

I'd suggest a 3/8" uncut spiral router bit in a spiral down program that starts in the middle and then moves out to the outside diameter instead of a drill bit. A light finishing cut wouldn't hurt either.
If you insist using a drill bit, do a pecking cut with the final breakout being a VERY light cut

5/27/22       #4: CNC drill through HPL ...
Mark B

Any tool in the changer, even a half inch compression with an interpolated hole would work. The issue is the drill block is faster but getting a show face hole clean enough for the lock would be a bear. A single (or couple) blown out holes would put me in the interpolated column in short order.

5/27/22       #5: CNC drill through HPL ...
Dropout Member

Don't like drilling with a router bit. Hard on everything.

Drill the hole first with a 1/2 v point bit and then use a compression spiral to open up the hole to the diameter you need.

Little more time but always perfect.

5/27/22       #7: CNC drill through HPL ...
BEN ROBINSON Member

Thanks alls,
I am running AI center, with RouterCAD producing the G-Code. I have a couple of sample holes that I will try in a few minutes. I will try all the different size bits in the interpolated. I wasn't sure how to make my program do that type of hole, but figured it out!

5/27/22       #8: CNC drill through HPL ...
Mark B

Not to argue with Dropout but an interpolated hole is not drilling with a "router bit". High plunge rate spiral interpolation (350ipm) is a basic milling cycle. Whether you run it as a pocket cycle taking the hole to diameter in two passes or one is just dependent on how your material behaves. I could easily see a 1/2" compression plunge, or 3/8" if thats whats in your changer for another op, doing a single spiral down and being dead clean.

Never be as fast as a drill but again, 1 blown hole and you've lost any time gain from the drill block.

5/27/22       #9: CNC drill through HPL ...
Dropout Member

Mark B is correct.

I tend to drill first because you can't get the feed rate high enough for a decent chip load using a 3/8 or 1/2 bit in a 3/4 hole. At least if you're just enlarging an existing hole there is less load on the tool.

Just personal preference.

Did have to tell a guy last week that "drilling" a 1/4 hole with a 1/4 down spiral bit might not be such a great idea....


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