New Startup Shop here with a Biesse 5x12 Rover K and Holzher 1057 XL C Bander .

We are having the new edge bander installed this week and it currently without the nesting shoe .

My initial thought was to have the CNC take care of all the boring and Drilling, but didn't realize that presents a problem for the bander.

Im torn on the decision to have the nesting shoe installed or not. I hear without the shoe, i should have better edge finishes.

I currently do not have any setup for hinge drilling at the moment other than a hinge jig.

What are you guys doing and opinions on it?

Rich,
Seriously, buy and install the shoe. Likely around a grand? No separate op on the press, or for that matter no press at all, switch at will between Blum, Grass and Salice, etc (but definitely stick with Blum) and switch to the inserta hinge, short money for the better, quicker more versatile job.
I generally pocket the large cups with a router bit, but some have had success with a 35 mm brad point in the drill bank, or so I have heard.
I run a Biesse edgebander with perfect results over the hinge cups, with the appropriate bridging device, slightly different than the HolzHer setup but no matter No edge quality issues at all.

We had this issue previously. We cut mdf plugs that fit in hinge hole to keep copy wheel running smooth. I believe Fastcap has a product for this as well that is adjustable

Something new everyday.

I have 4 CNC,s 2 of them Biesse, and have no idea what a nesting shoe is.

Anyone?

Each trimmer usually has a large copy wheel that rides on the panel and you adjust trimmer to it. When u have an imperfection on panel wheel will raise up or in case of hinge hole drop into hole and trim to much. To solve this they make a long shoe that slides on panel or like on my Vantedge has multiple copy wheels so the trimmer stays flush with panel in the area of hinge hole.
See attached photo of my glue scraper it has 3 rollers only pic I had on phone

Thanks.

I do what Derrek does, I just made a pile of plugs .5mm smaller than the cup size and made them the depth of the cup cut.

I use a 35mm bit in the drill block. 8mm for the pin holes. Seems easier/faster than a pocket operation to me.

Same as Karl here, holzher triathalon without the nested based kit.

We use a 5mm drill bit to mark pilot holes on cnc, edge band and than the guys used the dimple as a center line on regular blum hinge machine. Found its much faster than trying to screw around with plugs at the edge bander.

I don't think the plugs slow anything down.

They get dropped and roll off sometimes, but that's why you make a ton of them.

I try and do the hinges as not the last edge. Run the hinged edge, then on my way back to the feed, I dump them out on top of the bander. Shove it through again. I'm sure it varies bander to bander, but I almost always get back to the in feed before it's ready to accept the next part.

We used to use the puck method on our old Holzher. Recently got a new Biesse with the "shoe" and love it. The puck works, but the idea is to make it so that the puck is slightly proud of the panel in case 1 door is slightly less thick than others (material inconsistency) , it won't cut into the door. Now you have a small lip of edgebandng to sand/ scrape off.

If instead, you're going to band and then bore afterward, or if you're boring 5 piece doors, I'd suggest figuring out how to run "ops only" program with your CNC as opposed to a hinge boring machine. I suppose it depends on what software you're using.

We pocket with a 1/2" bit. If you use the drill, occasionally the "veneer" (or laminate or whatever) can break loose and spin with the bit so that it doesn't cut at all. Best case is no hole. Worst case is damaging your CNC.

Regarding drilling the hole, we took the extra time to pocket 0.030 or so under size and use the drill bit just to clean up the hole.

“We use a 5mm drill bit to mark pilot holes on cnc, edge band and than the guys used the dimple as a center line on regular blum hinge machine. Found its much faster than trying to screw around with plugs at the edge bander.”

I would love to see your time studies on this. I find it very hard to believe that adding an additional step, including the handling and transportation, along with the cycle time of the hing machine is faster than putting a plug in a hole and pushing through a bander?

Derek,

For me personally its faster for a few reasons

We do a ton of shaker and custom doors that don't come off the cnc and therefore we already have a system in place where when you pick a up door and lay it flat to put the hinge cups on it (which you have to do either way even if you have a automatic inserter) you bore it first, put hinge cups on and put the handle on all in motion so we are really not handling it any more than we would to begin with.

Second being majority of the time we have helpers on the edge bander, and the amount of time that they would forgot to put those plugs in and burn through a door is way more expensive than boring it when you put cups and handls on.

Third we do a ton of locks, and its a complete waste of time to switch out our drill block from the lock plug to the 35mm boring plug, yet alone can't do it both at once anyway.

So that's my time study, down the road when we get a new bander will probably bore them out first but at the moment its way more effective to dimple.

Do you guys have a picture of this plug? Does it need to be tight? or Can it be loose?

No they don’t have to fit tight 33mm is good
See video of mine 10 years ago

Edgebander plugs