Building maple butcher block tops for a client. They like a medium stain color that I achieved using the product that I typically use under Sherwin Williams CV (dye with lots of wash coats and glaze to arrive at desired color).

I am reading that CV is a less-than-ideal finish for a kitchen counter top. This top will not be cut directly on, but will get heavy everyday use.

Does anyone know of a good counter top finish that can go over a catalyzed stain sequence with good adhesion and have a sheen similar to dull rubbed?

Never heard of a "catalyzed" stain before but most people use 2K poly as a finish for counter top

Vincent, rule of thumb:
One's washcoat coating should be of the same variety as one's topcoat. I.E. If the washcoat is cv based - sealer or topcoat, then your topcoat should not be 2P k urethane or polyester. Having started with cv wash, you shouldn't "upgrade" to strengthen. Huge potential for coating failure.
Especially with multiple washcoats locking in, I assume, multiple glazes. Which in itself can lead to potential film failure especially on a well used table top.
So if one were to want a 2P k urethane or polyester topcoat, one would need to use an isolante/barrier coat(s) between glazes, if the glazes were petroleum based.

Somehow I missed your first paragraph

So like Shenendoah said,you should stick within the system
I suggested 2K poly because it's what most wood countertops fabricators uses for their finish
So you might have to get stain and whatever else you need to be compatible with the 2K poly

Thanks for the info so far, guys.

I use SW products, and went ahead and looked up their 2k poly. It's called procraft 9300 polyurethane clear coat.

I had a couple questions about it's use (mainly spray and cure temps), and talked with Sherwin Williams main tech support line.

The guy told me that they cannot recommend this, or any of their products as a food safe kitchen countertop finish. He told me to look into a pourable bar top epoxy, which I know I don't want to use!

My client has already agreed not to cut directly on the tops.. but now I feel put on the line as to whether or not to open the can of worms and tell them it's actually not food safe rated..

I know I won't be able to get as good a stain/finish using Waterlox or epoxy..

Frustrating!

Guess that's why they call it work.

I have used conversion varnish as a sealer, usually two coats, then moisture cure poly-urethane as finish, either satin or gloss. Harco Coatings makes MC POLY that has a tile like glaze. I've had it on our maple counter top for years.

Pete,

That sounds like the best solution to me so far. I am having trouble finding a gallon or quart of moisture cure in dull rubbed, or even satin, though.

I am only seeing it on gloss.

What about putting plain old satin minwax poly over 320 grit-sanded CV?

Test board coated.

It's a sample board I made a couple weeks ago with a stain sequence and CV.

I coated the poly over: no prep, 220 grit sanded, and 320 grit sanded.

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Gloss MC poly can be rubbed out with fine steel wool.

Oh nice.

I didn't think of that.. been spraying CV so long.

So I'm guessing the mc poly has better adhesive qualities than some old minwax?

Sample board pic below.

The area with no sanding did not offer any adhesion.

The CV sanded with 220 grit allowed the poly to adhere 100% when tested with tape as well as scraping.

I did not bother checking the 150 grit.

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