Laminating and Solid Surfacing

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laminating white oak onto MDF substrate

5/20/17       
Patricia Member

Hello,
I am looking to laminate 3/8”thick x 3”wide, solid white oak planks to ˝” mdf substrate to create wall paneling for a kitchen – I’ll be using a vacuum press with a urea type plastic resin veneer glue. I also need to laminate the same stock to different thickness mdf substrates to make some full length doors and side panels for same kitchen. I have been looking around in the web and some say this will not work do to the expansion of the solid wood and will only warp and crack in the long run, others say it is okay to do this. I am new to laminating and vacuum pressing. What say you in regards to this issue?
Also, if it is okay to do this laminating, is some sort of backer sheet needed to the ˝” mdf for balance? I cannot go beyond the 7/8” dimension for the final product so I thought I could use one of those backer sheets used for regular plastic laminate – again, what say you?
Thank you in advance for your thoughts and guidance in this effort.
Patricia

5/20/17       #2: laminating white oak onto MDF subst ...
rich c.

It won't work. Failure depends on what time of year you do the work. Glue it in the summer and all the oak will crack in the winter. Glue it in the winter, and the oak will expand and shove something off the end or bow a ton.

5/21/17       #3: laminating white oak onto MDF subst ...
Patricia Member

Thank you for your response. Any thoughts on how I can accomplish these panels the right way?

5/21/17       #4: laminating white oak onto MDF subst ...
MarkB Member

Much thinner oak

5/21/17       #5: laminating white oak onto MDF subst ...
B Member

Just rabbet the opposing faces to create shiplap. You can then nail it through the rabbets and the wood can expand and contract normally. No glue.

5/24/17       #6: laminating white oak onto MDF subst ...
David R Sochar Member

There are two ways to do this. Veneers and solids:

One is to use hardwood plywood with the White Oak A grade veneer on it. Joints in width and length will need to be accounted for in some sort of design enhancement since they cannot be successfully butted and sanded smooth without going thru the veneer.

Two is to mill the 3/8" boards into a v-joint shiplap profile of some sort. Then attach it to a stable substrate, and do the same on the back - balanced construction is crucial if you use a stable substrate. Leave a bit of a gap where the edges will come together to allow for expansion and contraction (not "warp and crack"). If I use 5" wide Rift Oak, I leave .040" gap along the v-joints for expansion.

Wood will move, and you have to do a lot to prevent it. 3/8" will behave the same as 2" thick W O when it comes to seasonal movement. Veneer will not move when properly laid onto a stable substrate. Use the Shrinkulator (search this site) to find out how much your wood will move.


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