We've got about 1000 linear feet of miterfolding to do on narrow (6" wide) 8' material. Wondering about pro's/con's to running them on the shaper as opposed to the CNC? I was considering picking up a v-groove shaper cutter and shipping it to our sharpener to have them grind it to 94 degrees.

No aggregate, and no tilting arbor shaper, and where these were just straight shot it seemed like a better option but before learning the hard way figured some input would be wise.

Thanks

Correction 91 degrees not 94.

I really have done very little solid surfacing but tons of wood in this fashion. The shaper will give you a way better finish than a tablesaw and faster than a CNC with the material your running. How are you cutting all your blanks? Right to width or a hair oversize? You can use an outboard fence with a powerfeed and get a finished width within a couple of thou. Prehogging some of the material off might make sense, not sure how hard solid surface is on cutters. I used a tilting spindle shaper with an insert carbide head to cut all my miters on face frames for years. All in one pass with no problems unless someone moved the power feed.

Thanks Dustin,
Typically everything gets broken down on the CNC with some parts on the slider, some track saw, but mostly on the cnc. Breaking down some parts on the slider/track saw is handy for build-ups/seam plates, but anything that require seaming or polishing down the line is better to break up on the router for the pretty clean straight off the cnc. Process on these where the edges will not need any work was break down on the saw with feeder, then feeder through the shaper for the miterfold if the cutter will work out. I wish I had a tilting arbor shaper and could run these on the flat rather than vertical but it is what it is.

Sharpener is getting back to me hopefully today about re-grinding a few v-groove cutters. The solid surface is relatively rough on carbide so we'd probably get a couple cutters and we could re-touch them here if needed.

This batch is 110 8' pcs so the shaper would kill the CNC for speed and no issues with tips breaking. Fingers crossed.

Have you looked into a replaceable insert carbide head? Charles GG Schmidt is one of my go to for this kind of stuff. Another is Global Tooling. With the insert tip heads, when it's dull, you just replace the tips and start back up again. No changing of dimensions because of changes from the grinding shop. These are more expensive to start, but pay themselves off pretty quick.

Ill give them a look. My guess is the degree off 90 for the miterfold would be a custom which I wouldnt mind if there were 1000's of these but its likely we can get through a couple batches with some relatively affordable brazed tooling if they will re-grind them. One sharpening shop just flat out said no which I dont understand as they would re-sharpen these cutters. Second shop seems to feel no issue.

I know I'm late to the party but doesn't Amana make an adjustable angle insert head?

I dont believe an adjustable angle/chamfer head would allow you an adjustable angle v-groove. Would work if you were going to single pass/profile each part and then tape and fold. I was looking to tape the parts and v-groove them taped so they come off the machine, seam adhesive, fold, and done. having to run the parts individually and then tape would be just as slow, if not slower, than the CNC.

Job is run already but thanks for info.

Mark,
How did the job go? What would you do differently next time? The great thing about Wood web is we can all learn from each other's experiences.

Gary.
I wasnt able to land on a suitable cutter fpt the shaper so we just ran them on the cnc.

How did the miter folds go.

I ran about 150 tops this way last year running all drop edges with miter folds and a ton on sills this way .

The glue all got little voids on the sills but not on the tops , it was the same material same glue and same CNC settings .

Any ideas ?

Zero voids for us on the folds but we are very careful about at least two passing and sometimes 3 passing the adhesive in miterfolds and we cut the mixing tip ever so slightly to a v point so it reaches right to the bottom of the groove. The 2/3 pass we do is with light trigger on the gun to apply a small bead right at the bottom of thr groove pushing the gun not pulling so the tip plows the adhesive into the groove then without lifting we do the same thing on a pull on the return. If the adhesive seems light we may do a third light push to make sure the fold is full and adhesive is pushed right to the bottom of the groove. We shoot for just a very slight bead of squeeze out on thr backside (not tons of squeeze out).

Seems odd youd gave viods in some and not others.

Ive never suffered from voids luckily.