Seems like there was a polishing technique, beyond manufacturers recommendations, used for solid surface material. I think it was Simoniz floor wax or paste wax. Anyone have any recommendations? I think I have run across a c-top done that way. Need to match it.

Floor wax or polish will not actually polish solid surface material. Do lots of samples as some polishes have solvent in them and could stain the countertop. Do some with some heat or direct sunlight too. The color may go really yellow.

I think what you will find is that those wax polishes are cheats to getting to a true surface. They allow you to quit several steps before you should for your specified polish and deliver a product that is acceptable on delivery but in days/week/months to come will quickly degrade leaving your customer with far less than they paid for (whether you charged them for it or not).

A gloss solid surface finish is expensive because its a pain in the but to go all those extra steps. I can easily run solid surface to matte (ending in scotch brite) and then pile on some automotive clear glaze or wax and land with a dead beautiful gloss finish that the customer will swoon over. That said, it will last a matter of days/weeks because the wax/glaze will quickly degrade and the customer will in short order be back to a 320/scotch finish (matte) and it will more than likely be blotchy because they will only be burning through the wax in high use areas.

This leaves the material (solid surface) with a bad name because you as the manufacturer shorted your end of the bargain by using a wax to get to gloss instead of doing what you were contractually obligated to do as a representative of the material and provide a true gloss finish.

The villiage idiot knows wax does not hold which is why we wax vehicles repeatedly. Your customer didnt pay for a dull car with a coat of wax lipstick. They paid for a gloss car.

This is for a commercial setting. I ask because I dont use the wax/polish products. I dont normally do high gloss SS c-tops. I have in the past in residential work. They show wear too quick. A satin/mat finish is the most common in commercial settings.
I ask also because the client requested the new c-tops to match the existing. Someone has used probably a wax. Maybe their cleaning or maintenance dept. It has the gloss of a new Ferrari. Not of a polished SS c-top.
By the way, I have spoken to one of the manufacturers in the past. They said they were considering the use of a wax/polish, but havent commited to it.
The closest gloss I have found is a carnauba containing wax.

Understood and agree with your opinions with regards to gloss and showing every little thing.

When I have to do gloss I just go from 320 through to 2500/3000 film pads (expensive) and then a polisher with a very fine abrasive glaze. The glaze may leave some "fill" behind but very little compared to any applied wax.

In my world it would be pretty hard to burry the scratches from even 320 with a wax polish though perhaps some very hard wax may work. As you say, when you get to high gloss (Ferrari) everything shows which is why I just plow through with wet sanding through high grit film (3M from the local autobody supply) followed by a bright polish. Its a mile of work.

Carnauba is famous for water spotting.

solid surface can be "polished" to any degree shine. You have to just figure how much of a gloss you want on it. You can sand it up to about 400 dry and then you have to wet sand it from there on out. Go to your local auto paint supply store and they will have the wet/dry sanding products that you will need. Once you get to about 1000 then you will need to buff out it out with an auto buffer and big bonnet on it. Buff it just like you would an automobile. When you change grits you have to change the bonnet as well. Clean off the top when going from one git to the next overwise the "grit " left on the top will scratch it with the same marks you are trying to get out. You don't ever put wax or anything like that on it, it will never have an even shine. Just remember the higher the gloss the more "scratches" will show. Also the darker the color the more scratches will show. Generally we go to about 600 wet sand and then buff with a med polishing compound, it really brings out the pattern in the materail and leaves a "satin" finish that will stand up to most uses.