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Venner or Solid?5/11
Are these doors to be a solid 1" thick slab? They would never stay flat in solid wood. Gluing a 3/16" or 1/4" piece to one side would warp just as bad. The only way to do that and get a panel that stays flat, is by applying equal thickness veneer to both sides.
If it was me, I would pass on this job unless they're willing to pay a premium for the extra work and risk.
As mentioned, 3/16 to 1/4" wood acts like boards, not veneer. Just because the wood is solid is no reason to assume it will warp. Choose narrower stock, especially rift or quartersawn. I would only do full overlay with a wide enough gap between the panels to allow for wood expansion. Once again quartersawn will limit the movement.
The labour of resawing and pressing uneven "veneers" then edge banding and gluing up doors would be prohibitively time consuming. And I agree you are creating trouble by gluing wood that thick to a stable substrate.
Thanks for the reply guys, this is one of the jobs that I'll regret taking, I may steer way from this one, hate to give jobs away, but...
When i turn down bad jobs i get better jobs
I'm nearly always a fool for a new challenge. I would do this job with 1/8" veneer on both sides over 3/4" MDF or BB plywood. I would rim the panels with solid stock 3/4" wide; then after the panels are veneered I trim off 3/8" on all edges to get my final dimensions. This takes longer than edge banding but looks better and is far more durable.
For the face veneer, I would mill them at variable thickness with the max. being 1/8" to give the customer the look they want. In order for that variable thickness panel to get pressed evenly in the vacuum press you have to put a compressible layer over it. I use 1/8" thick silicone rubber sheeting, from McMaster Carr.
Price accordingly. I would give them a comparative price for "normal" doors and drawer fronts, too, and hope they ultimately choose that option.
Rather than risking the thick veneer over stable substrate, IF you do it, I would suggest only using rift and QS which takes care of the cup problem.
Then for the doors, cut to lengths and then go to the jointer and deliberately take more off the back from one end by setting the board down with the front end just on the outfeed table.
The only problem that I see with joining these tappers is cleaning the glue squeeze out down in the little corners on the face so it doesn't show up in the finish.
Or forget the glue, and even sand/round the edges a little and fasten to battens on the back the same way the old timers did it.
Some good suggestions, especially passing on this job. If you are a glutton for punishment, both sides of a substraight must be treated the same. 1/4" "boards" are going to act like solid lumber. Watch out for the seasonal changes. Quartered moves less but still moves!