Are you just milling a laminated blank to size to put through shaper or moulder, or are you doing profiling, as well?
I've recently made a number radius and elliptical casings in white oak, many of which were a relatively huge (3.75" thick x 4.25" wide) glue-up (not lamination), and did both sizing and profiling on the router. I also did about 60' lf of huge helical handrail profile which was laminated using the same methodology. Given the recalcitrant and splintery nature of WO, I found a .5" roughing downcut bit to be quite useful in sizing and general roughing - no tear-out whatsoever. I also used an insert bit that Amana makes which has about a 2.5" cutting length (7/8" diameter), and did nearly as well for roughing, though was better climb-cutting, which didn't matter with roughing bit. For profiling after roughing, I found it necessary to run a finishing pass with a .75" ball end first about .04 up from final dimension, then do a final pass with a .25" ball end. Running just the smaller ball led to a lot of tear-out. Typically running 15-16k rpm and a program speed of 150 ipm, which I'd run either a bit lower or higher depending on the amount of wood being removed - up to about 250 ipm for the small ball end.
I would definitely be aware of your fixturing and have a good plan for locating the part - I usually just make a pass about .2" above the part and run it slowly to be sure it's where you want it to be. Be careful about up-flute bits, they lift more than one might think - esp. if you are taking more than just a slight pass.