Sapodilla Headboard

Figuering out how I was going to move this 175 alone was a problem that needed solving. I new I need tenons and if I glued it expansion or shrinking could be problematic. Visible set screw was not an option even though I could make a little cover to hide them. I drilled four 3/4 inch counter sunk holes into the back side of the walnut posts. At the bottom of the counter sink I inserted a threaded insert for the particular set screw I chose which was made of brass in this case. the screw is tightened and the but end clamps down on the broad sid of a tenon. A metal screw chewing into the tenons would not provide a tight slab to post conection. In fact in that case clamps would be needed to squeeze them together while the screw was tighted. Clamp use was unacceptable to me so I let the problem stew a few days. My succesful solution was to chisle a V shaped pocket into the tenon and to a 1" section of 3/4" x 3/4" angle iron which I epoxied into the V notch I chisled. I shaped the end of my set screws to the shape of a sharp point with a grinder. When the screw is tightened it catches the side of the Angle iron V in such a way that it draws the tenon into the post. all with a Large philips screw driver. This is done on the floor and then the head board is raised like a wall; keep your back strait. The screw heads are hidden in the counter sink holes. it worked vary well with four screws and you can not tell its not glued up.