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Below is a continuous crown stop Forum Technical Advisor Gary Katz uses to complete accurate cuts with a miter saw when working with crown moulding.
The stop is a sacrificial board clamped to the miter saw extension wings. A continuous crown stop makes it a lot easier to cut long and short pieces, and still get miters that are of equal length, so all the profiles line up well. Once the stop is clamped or screwed in place (making sure it's absolutely parallel to the saw fence), write a big L on the right side and a big R on the left side, so you won't be confused about which end you're cutting.
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Below is a video Gary created regarding cutting crown molding.
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One other word of advice: Never burn an inch, not if you can help it. Burning an inch isn't nearly as accurate because your tape can move, and many times you'll forget that you burned the inch and you won't add for it when you make your measurement mark.
For inside corners on baseboard and crown, you can hook the long point of the miter. It's always against the fence for an inside corner.
For outside corners on baseboard and crown, flush the short point of the miter (it's always against the fence for outside corners) with the edge of your miter saw fence, and then hook your tape measure on that edge. That's one reason a wooden auxiliary fence is always installed on my miter saw. The crown stop helps make measuring easier too, because it holds the material in position, so measuring crown is even easier than baseboard, which can fall down.
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