Question
Before I get raked over the coals, I am building a torsion box veneered countertop for a late middle aged couple, no kids, and she always uses a cutting board. I am not the skilled finisher some of you are. I do okay with Magnamax, but am hesitant to do a 2k poly. Since this is veneer and wood movement is nil, what would you say to having a local body shop (close by) shoot it with an automotive poly? I want as bulletproof a coating as I can get and since it is veneer and has less movement than automotive plastics, I was hoping there wouldn't be a problem.
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor J:
Auto clear is used on wood all the time. It's super tough and easy to rub out. There are two types, a polyurethane and a urethane - they are different. Most car clears are actually urethane. A few are polyurethane (which aircraft will only use, like Imron). It's even more durable. I use SPI brand clear (which is a poly) on all my auto collision work. I'm getting ready to do two end table tops with it next week. I'm going to use a lacquer sealer over the oil stained wood first to be sure. I tried auto lacquer once and it peeled off in sheets - didn't like the stain, I guess. So I'm anxious to try the poly. It's expensive though, about $100 gal. I'm told it works just fine on wood.
