Attaching Drawer Fronts for Full-Overlay Cabinets
A cabinetmaker seeks advice on attaching drawer fronts. February 27, 2015
Question (WOODWEB Member) :
Lately we've been doing more full-overlay (1 1/4") with frame and flat panel drawer fronts. Normally we screw the fronts to the boxes from the inside of the drawer, but with the full-overlay, the stiles and rails of the front are beyond the body of the drawer. We're struggling to find a good way to attach fronts. Has anyone found a solution to this situation?
Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor T:
Kobe corners from FastCap.
From contributor C:
Figure "8" shaped countersunk washers exist for this purpose but I can't recall where I get them. Ask your hardware rep. Option two: go to a 2.5 or 3" stile/rail. Option three: pack out behind the recess of panel and screw to it if wood (use only two screws at each end of drawer at same horizontal location to allow panel to move if and only if the panel is smallish).
From contributor X:
I do a lot of full O.L. face frame jobs. I use 3/4" O.L. on the sides (top and bottom O.L. varies) so I don't have those issues. I maintain 1/4" gaps on the whole job, sometimes I will go with an 1/8" if I want a tighter look. I use 1 1/2" face frame rails, anywhere there is a stile that two doors or drawer front's share (I use 1 3/4"). My finished ends are profiled with a 3/4" sunken radius bit so I use 1 3/4" stiles there which leaves 1/4" between the door and profiled edge. By doing it this way I solve two common problems with full OL face frame jobs. One- you don't have the problem with drawer front's like you are asking about. Two- you can use better hinges and you don't have to use the one piece face frame hinges that leave that big gap between the door and frame. I use the two piece clip on style hinge.
From contributor C:
To contributor X: I've had a couple of customers express interest in full overlay recently and your method makes a lot of sense, but you lost me on the finished ends. How are you using a 1 3/4" stile and 3/4" overlay and ending up with a 1/4" reveal between the end panel and the door/drawer front? I typically use applied panels placed behind my finished end stile. Are you leaving the finished stile flush with the outside of the box and bringing your applied panel out in plane with the door face like a frameless applied end?
From contributor X:
My finished ends are integrated into the frame. They are glued on, flush trimmed, then profiled with a 3/4" round over bit, that is sunken slightly. The profile takes up 3/4", so after the door is hung there is 1/4" between the door, and the edge of the profile.
