Question
Has anyone tried the Iwata spray guns? Does anyone have experience spraying conversion varnish and lacquer? Iwata and Sata are often argued as to which is the top automotive spray guns for cars. Their web site indicates they use very little line pressure, 16lbs to the gun if I am reading it right? Other forums are saying they're off the gun finish is so good they don't have to cut and buff. Cars always seem to be high gloss high build. I’m just wondering if applying wood finishing products it would make any difference. With their LVLP and low pressure it should have less overspray? Maybe save on product. I have an AAA and love that. I don't know if I am missing out on something for smaller jobs that is also superior?
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor N:
I'm pretty sure that 16 psi is at the gun with the trigger pulled. Depending on your compressor and the diameter of the air hose you're using that can be a ways away from 16 psi in the hose. I'm a self-confessed spray gun addict (one man shop and more spray guns than I have fingers and toes) and I've owned a few Iwatas (LPH 400) and still have three Sata's (1000K RP, 2000B RP and a 3000 mini HVLP and yes, they are amazing spray guns, the best I've used.
I prefer a pot and gun set-up for WB's with the 1000K RP for pressure feed and Devilbiss CVI for Gravity fed being my go to guns for WB clears and in my experience I get a better finish with them than with my AAA when using WB. But when using solvent CV or pre-cat I notice no difference in the finish when compared to an AAA, which of course gives a huge edge to the AAA. Less over-spray, a lot less compressed air to run, gets in smaller places and it's faster. Not that you shouldn't have a few gravity guns in the shop (or seven as in my case) they're great for making samples and finishing forgotten items and since good tools are a joy to use, get the best you can afford. Not only would I look at what Iwata has to offer but Sata and Devilbiss too, and don't forget CAT, Binks and Asturo.
•less overspray
•faster
•quality atomization
•smaller compressor
•portable, easy transportation
•sprays many coatings unreduced
(I read that AAA might contribute to microfoam bubbles when spraying 2k polyurethane because it shears the paint?)
Next on my list is a 3 stage or 4 stage turbine paired with an Accuspray turbine gun:
•clean dry air
•portable, easy transportation
•no compressor if you use an attached cup
•tiny compressor if you want a remote pressure pot
•easy setup/breakdown
•as loud as a vacuum cleaner
A turbine will yield more overspray than an air-assisted airless and it's slower in terms of how fast you move the gun on each pass. You might be thinning your finish to get a decently low viscosity so that you lay down a smooth coat (it's dry mil thickness will be thinner than an unreduced finish).
