Blades For A Slider


From original questioner:

We are currently using FS Tool blades for our Felder slider and have found that they warp a lot. Not sure if we will get them again. Has anyone else had this problem and what blades do you find work the best. Have tried to hammer them out but with mixed success.

From contributor Br

You need a thicker plate. AKA a better quality blade. Call schmitdt tooling supply or any other local tooling supplier and tell them what your cutting. Do you need triple chip, ATB, Aggressive etc. I've only ever had cheap freud blades and the like warp.

Once you buy better blades and cut with them you will never go back to the hardware store .
We even run the high end blades on our regular chop saws. It makes a huge difference in finish cut and quality.

From contributor Bo

try a set of stabilizers, cheap, might do the trick, however calculate in to see if you have offset for scorer, but there is no substitute for quality, consider better blades

From contributor Ke

We use a mix of Leuco, Leitz and Forrest blades on our slider with no problems. Most are 12" and 14" and have plates about .110" to .125"; larger diameter blades have thicker plates. Are you misusing your blades, like ripping thick stock with a high tooth count blade? I've never had warpage problems, and thought FS Tool was a reputable outfit. Have you tried discussing the problem with their tech service?

From contributor Da

Sorry not sure of the replies. I was under the impression that an FS Tool blade that is 135$ from our industrial supplier was a quality blade. We are not a hobby shop and no stabilizers will not fit on our triple pin arbour of the saw.

From contributor La

We use Leuco blades on the slider and beam saw. Their scoring blades (beam saw) are much better than others. We have an FS blade for the Omga and it has been fine. Is the blade being run hot? Dull, too slow of feed, wrong tooth pattern for the use?

From contributor Ge

We use FS tool blades and have good luck with them on our slider. I would check the saw setup if you haven't, as in travel of slider parallel with blade, check saw arbor and flange for run out with a dial indicator and rip fence alignment

You didn't say what type of blade? Is it used for panel stock or solid?


From contributor Da

XL4000 S23250 60T 10" .126 plate run at 6000rpm for melamine and pc plywood panel sizing only.

From contributor Ge

I am running two of those blades both 12" and they are always in rotation on the saw with no problem going on at least 5 years cutting the same materials.

I could be wrong but I remember running my 10" saw at 4000 rpm. Might be worth a try to drop the rpm.


From contributor Sc

I am running FS tool blades on my SCM slider with out any issues. They cut great. I cut melamine and multi core prefinished ply'd and some mdf. Have you had troubles with any other blades, have you checked your saw?

From contributor ca

I had a lot of problems with a sharpening service destroying blade after blade. And, not hobby blades- a lot of them were FS Tool. You probably need to ask them some questions. We have run FS, Amana, and Freud without any problems once we got away from them.

From contributor Ge

I think your rpm is way too high, even for a 10" blade. Heat build up causes shorter blade life and warping. 4500 rpm should be better, and less noisy too. You can always increase your tooth count.

From contributor Co

Following this thread, I am about to order blades for a slider coming in.
I need to rip 1" that burns a little easy and cross cut the same. Some times cutting upto 2".
Hoping for some recommendations for blades. I would guess a positive rake angle is preferred as the rake would pull the stock tight to the slider. Anyone using negative rakes on a slider?
Brands? I have been looking at some Skarpaz. Are they a quality blade? I know you get what you pay for...... looking into FS tool and Forrest as well. Though my Frued 24T rip industrial has been a good go to blade on my unisaw for years. Unsure if when stepping up to 12" I should also be considering thicker plate.
Anyone know if the cut is coarser on a 30T 12" as opposed too a 30T 10"? Seems the tooth spacing will be further aprt on the larger diameter blade. Does it make a difference?