Clear Finish for a Metal-Inlaid Table Top
Bar or table tops with metal inlays do well with a clear epoxy finish. Here are some tips on the process. May 24, 2006
Question
I am currently putting bids together for some intricate tables going on a luxury yacht. The tables include 3/8" wide brass inlay banding to separate the field of the table from its solid edge molding. There are also two other inner rings of 3/8" brass, one separating the crotch center detail. In trying to anticipate every obstacle in this bid... The idea of finishing over metal throws up big red flags for me. Anyone have experience with this? The products I normally use for tabletops are: catalyzed polyurethane for build coats (like ICA or the new Euro line from Campbells) and I usually topcoat in Campbells "Crystal" series conversion varnish.
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor T:
I have done many tops like this for big yachts (and homes) with cut brass and all sorts of inlays, but I have always used a 2 part (2 coat) epoxy resin like Ebon or equivalent. I'm sure there are other methods but the build and depth with the epoxy is outstanding.
From contributor A:
I did a bar last summer and we had sheets of copper on the 45 degree corners. We poured 17 gallons of west system epoxy on the top, then sprayed the ICA super high gloss as a topcoat. Use the special hardener that West System recommends when doing this kind of pour.
From the original questioner:
I can already see the direction this is heading, and it looks like it's gonna be a 2 part epoxy. I use West System frequently, but for this application I am deathly afraid that it will yellow over time. I know that just the catalyst that I have on my shelves starts turning color after a few weeks (but I use mostly the fast and slow hardeners, not the special application "super slow" one you're talking about).
From contributor A:
The metal is on top of the wood in this photo. It was thick copper, maybe 1/32". You know that you have to pour it really thick in order to bury the metal without seeing ripples in the finish. This was poured on and we let it flow where it wanted to. It was mostly okay, but we did have a little puddling in a few areas. This wasn't a problem, though.
Another shot. This has the ICA high gloss on top of the West System epoxy.
From the original questioner:
Very nice. Did you block it down (the epoxy) before you topcoated, or did it flow good enough for you to topcoat over?
From contributor T:
I believe we sanded the epoxy with a random orbit. It was already flat, but very shiny and kind of oily feeling. The sanding just scratched it a little and cleaned it up before topcoat.
From contributor C:
Most epoxies will produce a waxy blush as they cure. I can say from sad experience that this blush is extremely bad news for subsequent finishes. Fortunately (now I know this), the blush is easily removed with a damp rag. It's best to do this before sanding. Sometimes epoxy manufacturers will say this, but usually in very fine print deep in the technical data.
From contributor A:
I'm sure that I would have wiped the top down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol before topcoat. This probably helped remove that waxy blush or whatever it was.
