We will be running air lines at our new shop. I have heard ABS is a good and low cost material? Or?
What do you guys suggest?
What about this blue aluminum?
From contributor Le
Copper
From contributor Er
Copper is considerably more expensive to buy and install is it not?
From contributor Dr
ABS is like shrapnel when it fails.
I use PEX.
From contributor Ke
Don't even consider ABS or PVC. They make aluminum clad PEX for air lines. Coppers always good. I'm going to run a main of large diameter black pipe as a heat sink then use copper drops. Do it right, do it once.
From contributor Le
Sure copper is expensive, but so isn't the snap together aluminum. As others have said, stay away from the plastics, other than maybe PEX.
Copper is a good heat sink. Keeps the air in the line cooler. It has antibacterial properties also. So you won't be spraying germs out of your airline if it gets infected.
Copper is pretty easy to put together, I learned to sweat pipes when I was a teen. It gives you nearly unlimited options because all the fittings have been around for decades, none are going to disappear off the shelf anytime soon.
To do it 100% properly the lines should be brazed, but I've never seen that in a shop. This prevents the airline joints from melting if a fire breaks out in the shop.
Copper is very durable, if you hit it with something at most it will dent, but not leak. The advantages of an aluminum snap together system is if you reconfigure your shop often. Then you can pull your system apart and use it again more easily than copper.
The best way to put a system into a shop is a loop. Use 3/4" for the main loop. It should start and end at the compressor. This gives two pathways of air to feed your tools. Then do 1/2" drops or feed the quick disconnects right off the main loop.
Drops are a better idea for water. Have the 1/2" line go several feet below the fitting and end it with a ball valve. This way the condensate has a place to go other than out the connector into your tool.
From contributor Ed
Fostapex, it has a aluminum layer between the inner and outer layers, very easy, quick and affordable way to do. I ran thru my whole shop (6000sq ft) in 2 days.
From contributor Bi
Copper is expensive on the front side but easy to add to in the future.
In our shop 1.0 we did a 3/4' end run main and as we got bigger it became a problem. We then went to 3/4 and ran a loop around the shop so air could come from two directions. Over time that became a problem. Then we ran a 1-1/4' main with 3/4' loops to the main.
One major mistake we made was to drop hose from the main to where it was needed. If you look hose does not flow as much air as the same size pipe. You have to drop pipe to the point of use then go to a regulator then to the minimum length of hose you can get away with. Most tools call for 3/8 hose by the way which no one likes because of the bulk.
Now we have shop 2.0 and we inherited a black pipe system. It has 3' mains and loops all over the place. It is by far the best system we have had. We dropped 3/4 black pipe to the points of use and use 3/8 hose. No one starves for air. A few notes.
The main should slope back to the compressor
Drops should go up and around to down to keep water from coming down.
If you mix copper and black pipe you have to use a special fitting that keeps them from touching or you get galvanic corrosion. They are expensive, I am not sure I would intentionally do that.
We also followed best practices with the treatment system.
We run
Compressor
Cyclone moisture separator
Wet tank
Filter
Polishing filter
Refrigerated air drier
Dry tank.
The dry tank has an automated drain on it that is not plugged in. Once is a while we plug it in and have never gotten a drop of water it is amazing. Totally dry clean air.
I typed this on an iPad sorry if it's formatted funny.
From contributor Ch
I used PEX in my shop. Very inexpensive and very easy to reconfigure.
From contributor Ke
I don't know what the deal with PEX is. It seems a simple cost effective solution but you don't see it pushed much. It's possible the oil in the air could react with the PEX over time and cause a failure. The flexible plastic/aluminum lines are specifically designed for air supplies.
From contributor Ad
Use pex/al/pex
Its sold as waterline pipe for radiant floors. Its nice and stiff. It can be bent straight or curved and holds it shape.
The brand name air systems use lengths of the same pipe then use push fittings (Sharkbite type).
Never use drain pipe. It is not designed for pressure. abs & pvc are cheap brittle plastic. They will explode and may hurt somebody.
Drain pipe can be used in dust collection systems to some extent.
You can use regular pex for air systems as well. Its pressure rated to 160psi @ 73 degrees room temp.
From contributor Ke
Here's a quick description of the 3 different types of PEX https://www.pexuniverse.com/differences-between-non-barrier-oxygen-barrier-and-pex
-al-pex-tubing
From contributor Ke
I'll try again:
https://www.pexuniverse.com/differences-between-non-barrier-oxygen-barri
er-and-pex-al-pex-tubing
From contributor Ke
Third times the charm....
From contributor Ka
Aluminum all the way. The fittings are expensive, the pipe is dirt cheap. It's stupid easy to install. It's stupid easy to modify
I put up a new building last summer and was torn between copper and the aluminum, I'm glad I went with the aluminum.
I did the perimeter in 1", and all the feeders/drops in 3/4. The perimeter was just shy of 400' hung on hanger bolts and all thread. With a lift it took me a few days to assemble everything and there was at least 800' of pipe total. The learning curve is pretty short, and if I had to do it again without the I bet it could be done much faster. Especially taking out all of the distractions of other things going on at the same time. I did it when all the equipment was in place from a scissor lift.
The other nice thing is it's all modular. If you take something down, save the parts and reuse them.
I also didn't have one leak. After everything was connected to the system was a different story. I need to chase a lot of leaks in some equipment.
I used Prevost brand.
From contributor do
Steel black pipe here for 33 years still going strong.
From contributor De
I did pvc, 15 years ago. It worked but as mentioned it can explode and send shrapnel throughout the shop. I alao started to have leaks at joints over time.I just upgraded to the bule quick fit stuff when I put in a new compressor and its just nicer and safer. The time involved to install is less than pvc and it will last longer and is safer. I recommend it over the pvc.
From contributor Th
W.W. Archive went over topic extensively.
http://www.woodweb.com/forum_fdse_files/business/791941.html
From contributor Bi
Karl,
Might we enquire what the cost of the system was?
From contributor Ka
$4500? I think?
I can't remember for sure. I think that included $900 worth of filters after the compressor too.
