I relaminated an older, existing column at a retail location around a year ago. Since then, it has cracked. I have relaminated plenty of things including these columns at other locations (in the same building), and this is the first time I have been faced with this scenario. It was adhered to a plywood substrate (originally veneered) that was sanded and cleaned prior to spraying contact adhesive.
I'm not sure how this happened, the tiles that were applied to the bottom of the column had also fallen off around the same time.
If anyone has any input on possible causes, that would be great, but what I am wanting to ask is what the best way to remove the laminate in a timely manner would be in order to re-laminate it again. It has been over a year since I had done this, and had cracked (so I've been told) about 3-4 months from when I had first applied it.
(Sorry for the smaller photos, they are all I have been provided with so far)
Thanks!
From contributor Le
Looks like an improper inside corner. Hard to say because of the glare in the lower photo.
All inside corners should be rounded and never square. A 1/2"D flush bit should be used and the corner should not be squared out with a file.
If it is round......moving substrate.
From contributor Br
I'd guess the substrate wasn't all that stable. changes in moisture content. it moved, the laminate moved or both. the inside corner needs to be rounded as previously mentioned. Was the laminate applied with contact cement? if it was I'd heat it with an iron, it will loosen and come off.
From contributor Da
To take that off use lacquer thinner and squirt if on an edge and then as it peels off squirt it behind the laminate. start from top down and it will peel like a banana,
From contributor Le
I find MEK works much better than lacquer thinner.
From contributor Ro
If you use thinner to pull it off make sure you way a day at least before you apply contact back on the column. Otherwise you will have de-lam issues. Heat works the best, never heard of the iron method but it sounds better than the heat gun we use around here.
From contributor Ji
As previously stated, inside corners should never be squared. As for peeling the laminate, an iron will work but it's slow and tedious. A heat gun works faster but again, kinda slow. Wilsonart makes an adhesive cleaner (Wilsonart 131) that can be used if you can use a solvent in that space. The smell has more of a rubbing alcohol smell and dissipates quickly. It also dries much faster than lacquer thinner and will make removal of the old glue from the substrate much easier.
I usually go a little tigher on the radiused corner since alot of the bits used now are more like 3/8" but then use a chainsaw file to flush everything up.
From contributor Mo
It seems like an improper inside corner. Hard to say because of the glare in the lower photo. Also the reason could be that the base of the laminate was not the required one too. Sometimes laminates do fall off due to changes in moisture content as well. Try using MEK if you can as its really good.
From contributor Ro
All of the comments above are good, but one is lacking. If the laminate is not solidly attached then the corner will be taking all of the stresses due to movement in laminate or substrate.
To make sure the laminate is firmly attached after it is applied and trimmed heat the corner area (makes the glue extra sticky) and firmly re-roll it.
