I have a question for those of you who build euro style cabinets.
If you are using 19 mm prefinished plywood how many millimeters do you figure your door overhangs this plywood?
For example, if outside of box to outside of box = 1000mm and the box has two doors, how wide is each door?
The same question for the imperial inches shop. If the cabinet is 36 inches wide and the doors are full overlay, how wide would each door be?
Does the door hold in from the outside edge of the box or does it completely eclipse the lead edge of plywood?
From contributor Jo
1.5 mm reveal on case edge. 3 mm reveal between pair of doors and drawer fronts and doors. Joe
From contributor Ca
Thanks Joe. That's just the kind of answer I am looking for.
How do you handle the gap at end of cabinet run? Does it hold back 1.5mm here or do you flush it with the box?
From contributor Jo
Same 1.5
From contributor Da
1.5 box sides, 3 top, 0 bottom allows for stacking boxes, top drawer counter clearance, 3mm gap between top mounted crown and doors, etc. Applied end doors/drawer faces need to be 1.5 narrower for the gap to match (3mm everywhere else).
From contributor JM
1.5 sides, 3mm between, 0mm bottom, 3mm top.
We leave the 1.5 at the sides regardless if there is an applied end or whatever.
The only cabinets we deviate on this is OTR microwave cabinets, we add 3mm reveal at the bottom, and cabinets that rest on the counter we add 4mm reveal at the bottom.
Changing the side reveal effects the mini-press settings and I can guarantee the guys in the shop will screw it up, so we dont touch it.
From contributor Ca
You make a good point JM about how the math needs to be bulletproof. Blum and Salice make a million really great hinge & mount plate combinations but we stick with only two of them. Just getting those in the right spot can sometimes be a struggle.
From contributor Le
I use 2mm (5/64th) between and 1mm for adjoining cases.
From contributor La
We do similar but because commercial cabinets get beat so hard we increase the margins to 2 & 4mm. We also hold the doors up 2mm from the bottom so they are less likely to get damaged in handling. (all of our stuff gets shipped far & wide and put in by installers that don't much care about anything but fast.) They will not adjust hinges after install.
From contributor DE
Thank you for the English. MM means nothing. My rulers are all in American inches.
From contributor JM
That should tell you something when all the replies are in mm. hmmmmmm
From contributor Le
I did both. I have my shims labeled 5/64". Just happens to be darn close to 2mm.
From contributor La
Sure wish this country would go totally metric! It is a so much better system.
From contributor Le
Better for people who can't do math. There is no reason one system is better then the other. It's what you learn. Just wonder if people in metric use countries struggle with fractions.
From contributor La
People in the rest of the world don't have to struggle with fractions. They don't need them! Try adding up a column of #'s in feet, inches and fractions, Then do it in metric. Then try to convince me one isn't better than the other.
From contributor Ti
I'm with you on this one Larry.
Saying one system is as good as another is just grade school democracy.
Reminds me of one Christmas eve when my girlfriend slipped my cocker spaniel his first chocolate chip cookie. He never looked back.
From contributor Le
I was brought up with fractions and don't have problems adding them up. Only time I get upset is when I mistake 11/16" and 13/16" on the tape measure.
If you tell me something is 2000mm long, I'm clueless at it's real length. I'll have to convert it to inches.
But if you give me a metric tape measure I'll do just fine.
