Down-Stroke Jigsaw Blades for Laminate
Thoughts and experiences on cutting laminate on site without chipping it out. November 19, 2008
Question
I am running into a problem when cutting a laminate countertop from the top side. It always chips away the laminate, so I have to turn the jigsaw around and cut from the bottom. But I was wondering if there are any down cut jigsaw blades that would cut on the down stroke instead of on the up stroke. Does anyone know where I can get something like this for a Bosch Jig saw?
Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor L:
Bosch has a down stroke blade. I think the designation starts with a BR. I use them for scribing finished cabinets. You need to be careful - the saw likes to push up and jump about. A firm grip and steady downward pressure is required. Set the blade rotation to 0 or 1.
From contributor J:
Just about anyplace that sells jigsaw blades should have the downstroke blades. They're not uncommon at all in hardware and box stores around me. If for some reason you can't find them locally you can certainly order them online.
From contributor M:
Bosch t101br (down cut), but I don't use those blades. Too slow. I use the
Bosch t101b. It's an up cut, but does a nice job, even on laminated tops.
From contributor D:
I use metal cutting blades and masking tape. The tape is mostly so I can see my line though.
From contributor N:
Wurth sells them; you may pay a little more, but they are well worth the extra money.
From contributor K:
Contributor D is on to something with the metal blades. I had to use one to cut a sink opening a couple of weeks ago and it really did a much better job with the laminate than any of the wood blades I've used. No flaking of the laminate at all. It cut pretty fast too, although it was a new blade. That's what I'll use from now on.
From contributor F:
I use metal blades - fine tooth for just about everything.
From contributor P:
Don't forge to turn off the blade orbital action, though it works against you with the down stroke blades.
From contributor U:
Metal blades? Must take forever to cut something with teeth that small. I'd think MDF would just clog them up. The 101BR cuts just as fast as the 101B - it's basically the same blade. I try not to sand scribes, so I'll cut right to my line with the 101BR and never have any problems.
From contributor M:
The t101br and the t101b are the same (one up cut, the other down cut), but with the br you can't use the orbital (makes your saw jump up). Having the orbital on makes your saw cut faster. Of course the t101b doesn't give you as clean a cut as the t101br, but good enough for a sink cut out, and faster.
From contributor U:
If I need to cut clean enough for a downstroke blade, then I won't be using any orbital action anyway. Then things might start moving too fast to be totally accurate and avoid the sanding/planing step. I'm with you on the sink rough in cuts or other applications where accuracy isn't quite as important. I'm mainly trying to cut a scribed piece in one step. Scribe the line, cut, install, finished. I have been cutting little blocks on the chopsaw to use instead of a compass to draw the line, and it is dead accurate. Cut exactly to the line, leaving the line on the piece, and it will be a perfect fit.
From contributor O:
Bosh down cut blades - lose the orbit, hang on tight, and watch sideways pressure, as the PLam can still chip on you! They are sometimes hard to find though.
