If you had no alternative to putting on a new finish in an in-home situation what would you use for a finish? Spraying would still be the preferred method but perhaps falling back to a brush on finish is unavoidable.
How would you attack such a situation?
Thanks, BH Davis
From contributor Fa
With a product you are familiar with. To me the learning curve of the product is FAR larger and carries far more liability than the issues with onsite finishing. I would tarp and tape and set up half a dozen box fans and insist and being the only one onsite on spray days and use the product that I know how it performs.
From contributor Da
When we need in home finishes I use a finisher here in lower Fairfield county Ct , he sprays all types of finishes with great results. Depending on what is required by the builder / clients .
In my experience not everyone who sprays lacquer can spray oils and water based paints .
From contributor ni
is this a occupied or a unoccupied house or new construction? are you finishing new work or is this a refinish job?
In unoccupied new construction I'd use whatever you're use to. Just do what the other posters have said; get some cross ventilation set up and get the place to yourself.
If it's new or refinish work in a occupied house or refinish work in a unoccupied house I always use a WB finish system; non flammable, less solvents, less odor and what there is lingers for a shorter time, most wb's are compatible with old finishes especially after a good cleaning and a barrier/primer coat and in a experienced hand they produce a fairly durable and attractive finish ( I've been getting very good results with SW's Kem-Aqua Plus).
One of the most important things to know for site work is that masking can take a long time; from a couple of hours for for walls in a new unoccupied home. To days for walls, counter tops, floor coverings, cabinet interiors, furniture, ventliation/overspray avenues in occupied homes. also save yourself some time and money by taking the screens out of the exhaust windows when spraying.
From contributor Ro
Waterborne Lacquer. Kremlin Pump or equivalent for High End Custom Finish.
Italian Waterbornes are the best.
Learning curve is tough if you are used to spraying solvent lacquers.
I would only spray on site if the house is new and unoccupied....all other workers must be out of the house too when spraying waterborne. You must use a respirator.
Labor fee: $60.00 per man hour.
From contributor Ad
Hi BH,
You are in the MLC area of the planet. I would seriously consider the Aqualente Plus wb products.
I've sprayed a ton of it and I've had to brush some really difficult in house jobs. It brushes easily.
Oil/solvent is outdated for those applications at this point in time. The dry time/recoat times are the same as solvent.
Call Atlantic Plywood. Buy a gallon and have try in the shop. Their tinted stuff is very good.
From contributor B.
Thanks everyone.
Adam,
I've used the Aqualente MDF white primer and it is an excellent product. As you mentioned I've sprayed and brushed it with success.
I'll call Atlantic to give the clear top coat a try.
BH
From contributor Da
I would use nitrocellulose lacquer for all the woodwork other than kitchens and bathrooms and windows/windowsills.
For kitchens and bathrooms I would use ML Campbell Krystal.
For window frames and windowsills I would investigate the use of an exterior grade coating, not a marine varnish that needs rejuvenating every few years, but a long-lasting coating.
