Glazing Technique for Good Contrast
How can you apply and wipe off glaze so it highlights the glazed edges, but doesn't tint the base coat in areas you don't want glazed? April 18, 2013
Question
For glazed cabinet doors I have been using SW white precat (tinted), then apply and wipe off SW glaze, then clear top coat. The process works, but it seems that no matter how I wipe the glaze it leaves a noticeable tint to the base color, and I'm really just trying to highlight the door details. Is there a technique to avoid this?
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor B:
Since you are using precat as a coating you are very limited as to how clean you can wipe off the glaze. The glaze is biting into the precat and is changing the color of your basecoat. I would try spraying the base color out of conversion varnish. Then apply the glaze and remove excess glaze with a clean rag. I then would let the highlighted area dry overnight. Then you could clean the surface with acetone and a clean rag. Then lightly Scotch-Brite for topcoat. Don't try this on the precat as there is a good chance it will start to eat the precat coating.
From contributor J:
Shoot a coat of clear, then glaze, and then another clear. The clear under the glaze will allow you to use an abrasive to get a little more aggressive scrubbing the glaze away. As mentioned, a rag with a mild solvent such as naphtha to clean off residue helps. Lastly, as also mentioned, using a harder product such as conversion varnish allows you to get a little more aggressive removing the glaze.
From contributor W:
I have never tried one but I've seen glazing guns. You can apply the glaze only to the profiles.
From contributor F:
There are techniques such as using a glaze gun with a tip that makes it more like a flow pin because air isn’t used. The rule of thumb is that you don't put the glaze where you don't want the color to change. That goes for pre or post cat. Yes you can do a solvent wipe but do not let it dry overnight if you have sanded in-between coats the previous day unless you plan on sanding again the next day. Coatings stretch out during the initial cure and it causes issues with the next coats adhesion (re-coat window). If you sand, put the next coat on that day if possible. If not, re-sand again when the next coat can be applied.
From contributor M:
Even post-cat products end up with a color shift. Look for various glaze pens or squirt bottle type things for accenting various places.
From contributor V:
If you don't want the color shift you need to use a glazing gun. C.A.T. has one but it is pricey. I tried that first but now have the Asturo glazing gun. It’s less expensive and much higher quality. You can glaze a door in a few minutes once you get the technique and viscosity down.
