I'm back to making my own cabinet doors and loving it. However, this is the first time I've used beech. Because of how hard and brittle it is, and prone to tear out when running the stick profile, I cut the stick profile in two passes. First pass a climb cut removing 90% of the material and the final cut a standard, removing the rest. At the time I thought it was a great idea, but the joints have just enough slop in them that I'm not comfortable with using my standard Titebond 1 glue. I need something that will span that gap when needed. As I'm a stickler for tight joints, I haven't run into this before and am wondering if a good epoxy would fit the bill here? I can pick up a good Loctite heavy duty epoxy locally or order in (but it won't be here until the end of the week) t-88 gap filling epoxy. Any advice?
From contributor J:
Epoxy has a tendency of accentuating a wood-to-wood joint with a dark line, so be aware if you go this route. Unstained beech is pretty light, so it might jump out at you. I'd make a few sample doors, one with yellow glue and one with epoxy and stress-test the joints. The problem with epoxy is that in order to be really gap-filling, it needs a filler such as wood flour or colloidal silica, and these fillers turn your liquid joinery ugly, or at least unexpected, in a cabinet door.
I would encourage you to consider using a jointer on the joints just before glue application to get the perfect gluing surfaces, and then use TB I.
On the other hand, epoxy used in a tight joint will not develop as much strength as TB III (or TB II or TB). The same is true for a loose joint that has high pressure.
In a test such as run by a FW magazine author, one must be very careful, as the test may favor one adhesive over another (for example, epoxy on a tight joint or high pressure joint will favor other adhesives). A thread a few months ago mentioned some of the shortcomings of the tests used in this particular article.
Unless the joint is extremely loose (dry fit), then it would probably be best to use TB rather than epoxy. In many cases, there will be enough strength imparted by the regions where the joint distance is perfect, so that the few spots of gaps and low strength will not affect the overall performance and the overall strength (most joints exceed the strength of the wood and also are stronger than the load applied when they are made properly).