HPL Tops with Solid Wood Edges

A little advice on constructing small restaurant tabletops with HPL top faces and solid wood edges. June 12, 2014

I have heard of using contact in the field of a HPL/substrate and PVA on edges.
1. Do I coat HPL and table top with contact, let dry, and then PVA and clamp edges?
2. Is this a waste of time or is it much better than just contact?
3. I plan on copying some existing tops in the restaurant. They are merely 3/4" PB with 1 3/4x 3/4 solid maple edges. A backer wasn't used and the tops are flat. Why?

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Forum Responses
(Laminate and Solid Surface Forum)
From contributor R:
1 and 2. If you are talking laminate edging, most will do the edges and then the deck. If using a contact adhesive, you do need to coat both the laminate and substrate. Using PVA on the edges is possible and will give you some added strength and moisture resistance.

3. The lack of warp is likely due to good acclimation of materials and the relative small size of the table. You may want to verify if the back is covered with a sealant.

From contributor J:

The tables aren't warping because the solid edging is big enough to prevent it, sort of like a beam on the edge that won't deflect. The edging needs to be solidly glued and fastened. If you want a really good attachment, use a rabbet at the top of the edging. It would be possible to laminate the edging first with PVA glue (long strips), then mitre the strips and install on the table, and lastly laminate the top with contact cement.

From the original questioner:
Thanks. I was thinking the same thing about the mitres, but thought I might get into trouble if I didn't have perfectly square cuts. My saw is in need of some attention. What I am talking about is gluing the perimeter of the laminate with PVA.