Increasing chainsaw life

How to keep your chainsaw mill in healthy, working order. January 16, 2001

I recently purchased a Husky 350 (50cc) and made my own jig, fashioned after the Alaskan. What can I do to help the life of the saw? I have a ripping chain installed, and give the saw a break between cuts.

Forum Responses
I've graduated from an Alaskan III mill with a Husky 262 to a Logosol with a 288 Husky. You've got a good start by listening to your saw, especially in hardwood.

I use 10W30 motor oil in my bar oil reservoir, and that eliminates a lot of heat. Eliminating most of the bar clamp except for what the 2 nuts hold helps get rid of sawdust quickly (watch your fingers!). Alternatively, you could ensure that debris is kept clean from the clutch area. On a good day I could cut about 120 bf.

I'll assume you use the Husky mix. The small containers mix with 10 liters of High Test gas.

At such high RPMs, your saw is like a vacuum cleaner. Blow out your air filter every time you fill with gas.

I disagree with using 10W30 as bar oil. Use the highest grade bar oil you can afford. If you have to, use gear oil 85/140 or 90--anything that has the ability to resist being thrown off the bar, like Hypoid gear oil. Regular bar oil has the correct additives and will stay on the bar long enough to lubricate it.

A clean air filter and high grade mixing oil are important.

My 044 is getting a new cylinder and piston. The saw had 5 gallons of gas, properly mixed with the Official Stihl Oil. But I used 87 octane and apparently this contains too many additives for a two stroke.

Set your carb to run a bit rich. Don't go for the "scream" of the saw. Do not add more or less oil to the fuel.

Years ago I did a lot of work with an Alaska Mill, and ended up with a double-ended bar and two of the largest power heads I could find. The power varied from time to time.

Run your power head fuel mixture as rich as possible when putting these high output units under heavy, continuous load. You’ll get improved internal engine cooling and lubrication.

Yes, give the power head a rest. They were not designed to operate for extended periods of time under heavy load.

Don't buy the line about 87 octane gas containing too many additives for a two stroke engine. The carburetor had to have been adjusted too lean for break-in purposes. A new engine needs the richest possible mixture for break-in, as the oil in the fuel mixture is what provides the lubrication for the piston/cylinder, as well as the crankshaft. This is from a long-time two-stroke mechanic.

Regular 87 octane gas was okay until recently, when they began adding oxidizers and other stuff (as much as 10% by volume) to meet air quality standards. The only way to beat this game, and to avoid premature gum formation, is to move to a higher octane.