Mating Cove Moulding to Baseboard

An installer gets advice on a tricky trim joint where vertical cove moulding meets the top of a baseboard. July 5, 2005

I’m installing ¾” inside cove molding to cover gaps between the wall and a floor to a ceiling wall cabinet. The problem I am having is trying to decide how to match up the vertical cove molding with the baseboard (where the baseboard butts up to the cabinet). I’ve tried to imagine many different possibilities, but I keep going back to just setting the end of the molding on top of the baseboard, which seems tacky to me. The cove molding is natural maple and the baseboard is painted white. I hope the description is clear enough. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor R:
I would use a 1" x 1" soldier block 1/2" to 1" taller than the base. This allows the base and shoe to be captive at its end against the 1" x 1", and the vertical cove will be captive at it's bottom end on top of the 1" x 1". Make it the same finish as the cabinet and cove for the best look.

From contributor J:
I would cope the cove mold over the baseboard. Just trace the base profile on the back side of the cove and cut it out. If it is the type of base where a small finger will be left running down the flat face of the base you can trim that off, or use a 23 gauge pin and glue to make sure it stays against the face of the baseboard. This method works well for me with most of the base profiles that I run into. I always cut the cope first and cut to length second to allow for the fine tuning I invariably have to do.

From contributor G:
I had this exact problem in a home I was installing base in, and I took what I think was a very original approach to the problem and the customer loved it. I treated the corner like a bull nose corner, but reversed. I cut a small piece that made the turn in the corner, and fallowed the edge of the cove molding bringing all the edges flush.