Does anyone know how to run a radius crown on a tilting head shaper? How do you price a run? Any pictures or illustrations will help.
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From contributor A:
I had two cutters made to run a radius crown., a top ogee and the bottom ogee. They both use the same bearing. This ends up being a solid chunk of wood instead of a curved angled piece. The two pieces are run on MDF patterns and then stacked on each other and glued.
For your problem, I am assuming that you have a set of cutters that you can mount on the tilting arbor. If this is a normal size cutter (3.5" - 4.5") this is a large cut to take in one pass. And I would suggest you do several passes. You would need to build your jig so that it is a self-contained radius jig, meaning it would hold your piece and rotate 90º around the cutter because you cannot use a bearing when the arbor is tilted. Maybe you could use a pin, but that seems unlikely as I think it would get in the way of the cutter head. I guess I am suggesting that you go by my first description with a pair of cutters and some patterns. It would be much safer in my book.
The safest way to run curved crown is on a tilting head moulder such as the ones by Fortis, Steggher and Mikron. Assuming that you aren't interested in purchasing a new machine for a single moulding run you'll have to work with the tilting spindle shaper. As contributor B stated you can use your fence as a guide for outside curved crown. That, or a bandsawn curved fence, will keep the material in the correct orientation to the cutterhead.
Inside curved crown will require the bandsawn fence though. You'll have to be careful to line it up correctly though as there is only one correct wood to spindle orientation position. If you line up off center you'll have the wood coming in from the side of the tilted spindle rather then having the spindle leaning over the wood. A power feeder is absolutely required as well.