Mitering Rubber T Moulding
Sharp corners are harder to detail than radius corners when applying T moulding. December 28, 2014
Question (WOODWEB Member) :
I have a large counter top job coming up and I would like to use rubber T moulding as a front edge. Has anyone here ever used it before and mitered the corners (as opposed to making a radius corner and wrapping it)? I’m just curious how that might work.
Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor J:
I believe you should miter the spline and fold around the corner.
From contributor M:
I agree with what Contributor J said. If you have to go full circle, make a butt joint instead of a miter.
From contributor S:
Normally the corners have at least a small radius, if doing a tight corner notch the T and remove the excess, you'll see it fold up if you fold a loose piece before installing. If you're doing this often buy a notching tool from Outwater but not necessary. If you are doing a job that will get rough use you might want to put a pin through the tee from the bottom at the ends or butt joint, it keeps people from picking at it and pulling it out. If it comes out a couple times it opens the slot and never stays put after that. Buy the correct spline tool for the slot to match the tee barbs.
From contributor G:
I do a lot of t-mold counters. Miters have never worked for me. I always use a butt joint. To keep in place, I use a little Fastcap 2p10 at the very end. It's never the prettiest joint. So if it needs to be pretty, I make sure the client knows they need to change it from a square corner to a radius corner.
From the original questioner:
What do you think the tightest radius is? It is p\Probably dependent on the thickness of the rubber?
From contributor G:
Yes, you'll need to do a test piece to figure it out. One trick I use on tight corners is to blast the heat gun on the t-mold for 15-20 seconds to get it to fall into place easy. Then when it cools back down, it's locked in real good.
