Question
We are a commercial casework fabricator. Recently we started doing some of our fast track solid surface work in house. I am trying to do some no-drip edge tops. I got an Amana #57118 no-drip bit to do this. I am having a heck of a time - I cannot get a good edge. I think part of the problem is that these are designed for 1/2" material and Corian is slightly under 1/2". The only way I can get a good edge is to apply another 1/8" strip to my front edge to make it just under 5/8" thick. When I do that, the edge looks great. But I shouldn't have to do this. Has anyone else had this problem?
Forum Responses
(Laminate and Solid Surface Forum)
From contributor M:
I have not used the traditional no-drip bit for many years. In my opinion, there are numerous problems and difficulties associated with the bit. Inside corners and radius work were my biggest issues, as the router is operated in a vertical position.
My solution was to build up the tops traditionally, rabbet a groove 1/8” deep by 3/4” wide where the no-drip is required, then glue in a 3/8” radius coved molding. When the adhesive is trimmed off, simply run a ¼” rounding bit along the edge and sand to blend.
I realize that the detail is different than the Amana bit, but I never had an architect reject my shop drawings. I also realize that this method adds an additional gluing step, but it proves very efficient in my shop since we cut the rabbet when cutting the tops on our CNC router and we have a dedicated shaper for cutting cove. A single gluing operation would be ideal, but we seldom if ever have a glue line issue with this method... That was another problem with the bit.
