Nyle L150 dehumidification system

A discussion about whether a Nyle L150 dehumidification system is salvagable. March 6, 2000

I recently acquired a Nyle L150 dehumidification system from a friend with the promise to pay him for it if it works.

The system was built in 1988 and has dried four charges according to the guy he got it from. I wired it back up and energized it. The compressor worked fine, but I can't get the heating element to work. I took the cover off the controls and the unit, and some of the contacts have been covered by invading mud dubbers.

This unit has a 1.75 HP compressor and looks clean as a pin except for where the dubbers have been. My friend said he would take $1200 for it if I wanted it. My question is, if I can get the unit to work is it worth the money? Would Nyle still carry the parts and instruction manual? Also, how many board feet (BF) would this unit dry?

Just send a note to Nyle (see their ad here at WOODWEB).

This unit has Freon-20, I believe, which limits it to 115 F. You do not really want such a low temperature unit. But even a higher-temperature unit (155 degrees F or so,) has a problem. Freon destroys the ozone layer, so the U.S. government has put a big tax on it and it will be phased out in the next year (about). So now manufacturers are specing new gases -- 143A. But the new gas costs nearly as much as Freon with the tax -- very expensive. Also, seals dry out if the unit is not run.
Gene Wengert, forum moderator

I have a 1989 L-150 and it sounds like your heat reset has been tripped. This is what my manual says to do:

"If the heat light is not lit or the kiln does not begin to warm up, the heat reset could have been tripped during shipment or installation. It is located about a foot below the knockout on top of the dehumidifier. WITH THE POWER DISCONNECTED remove the knockout, and gently press the red button with a pointed, non-conductive stick. The end of the stick should be no larger than the diameter of the red button. It is much easier to see if you shine a flashlight in through the blower outlet. Replace the knockout, and test again. Incidentally, if you test the heat without the blower operating, the thermodisc will surely trip."

I dry between 1500 and 2000 BF of 4/4 with good results. The max. temp. I go to is 120 degrees. I shut the compressor off and just use the heater to raise the temp. to 135 degrees or so to sterilize the load, without any apparent damage to the compressor. Hope this helps.