PVA Glue for P-lam?
PVA glue is not as fast as contact cement for applying plastic laminate, but it gives good results (if you choose the right glue). February 14, 2010
I'm a wood guy and I've only done laminate a few times. I have a desk top to do and was wondering if there is reason not to roll on Titebond Coldpress glue and throw it in the vacuum press? I've glued phenolic backed veneered edgebanding this way and had no problems.
(Laminate and Solid Surfacing Forum)
From contributor C:
PVA is actually a better adhesive for p-lam than contact cement; contact is used because of lack of time and equipment, which doesn't apply to you. Titebond makes two glues called "Cold Press". As a "wood guy", odds are you have "Cold Press for Veneer" which has ground walnut shells added to prevent bleed-through on unbacked veneer. They don't recommend that one for HPL. Regular PVA or "Cold Press for HPL" is a better choice. You should get great results. Keep in mind that on HPL excess glue has nowhere to go except to the edges (no pores to get pushed through), so be sure to keep your glue spread reasonable.
From the original questioner:
Just as I thought, contact isn't a good adhesive for anything. At least it works better on laminate than veneer. I'm not in a hurry. Contact would probably take me longer as I'd have to go out and buy the stuff. I don't want to breathe that anyway.
From contributor K:
I am a wood guy also, but do laminate counters on some of my projects. I use Wilsonart laminate and Wilsonart has their own brand of contact cement. That is what they recommend. A gallon is only 20 bucks and I could be finished before you got your press out and ready. The only thing important is to use strips to keep the top from sticking before you get it lined up. Then start on one end pulling the strips out and rolling down. Then again I would like to try some veneer work, but I don't think I'll use contact cement for it. But hey, it might just work.