I am currently building a few custom exterior doors. I am wondering how everyone else creates the rabbet for compression bulb weatherstrip. Do you glue the rabbetted stop to the jamb, or does someone make a router bit to plow it into a solid jamb with the stop machined in?
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From contributor A:
Use a good sawblade and cut the rabbet and the slot for weatherstrip. With a sharp blade there really isn't much sanding.
The trick is to tilt the saw about three degrees so the blade won't mar your rabbet face. Some fence adjustment will place the kerf right where you need it. I got this by looking at factory jambs. The insulation bead goes in fine, with no ill effect from the angled slot.
Our butt hinged exterior doors are usually 2 ¼ thick requiring a 2 ½ X 9/16 rebate. The present method is to cut the end rebate with a sliding table shaper. The long rebate is cut with a 250mm diameter Garniga rebate cutter with chamfering insert knives easing the top surface edge and a 3mm insert groover making the gasket groove. We still have to do the lower edge ease in another pass or by hand. The material is fed face up flat on the table with the cutter on top. We have a 13 HP shaper and would recommend at least 10 HP for a cutter like this. We have molder knives for this also but the end cut after is a problem setup. The shaper is faster for small quantities.
For smaller shapers, using a rebate cutter with the jamb on edge works better than saw or dado cuts. Its a little harder to match to the top rebate with this method. The feeder has to be tilted and you still have to put the gasket groove in with another step. A 10 saw blade in a shaper is easier than the table saw or router for the groove. Tilted a little as contributor J describes or held up .5mm. I would be interested how shops totally machining exterior doors on CNC routers approach this problem.