Question
I have a tree service guy who is interested in using the wood he cuts down to be made into lumber. He has been wondering about it for a while now and because of a job he has gotten, would like to get started up. He has been asking me questions I just don't have the answers to.
He plans on cutting down some rather large red oaks. 40" diameters, 80' straight up before any branches start, and he says he has about 20 to cut down. What would be the best lengths for him to cut the logs to? He can handle 10'6" easily, but I have told him that 12'6" would probably be better.
He plans on getting a band saw mill to cut the logs into boards. After he does this, what does the kiln operator expect? Does this need to be delivered to him already stickered out? Or will the kiln operator do this? Or is this just dependent on the operator?
I am in northern CT. Any ideas what it costs to have the oak dried (6-8%)? And how do I go about finding a kiln operator? This is the first of many questions I will need to ask you guys/gals. Thanks.
Forum Responses
(Sawing and Drying Forum)
From contributor S:
First, your friend should identify what market he plans to sell his wood to, and then cut the logs to the appropriate length (as well as saw them to the appropriate dimensions). Many experienced sawyers will recommend that he cut to whatever length and mill for the best grade. Some oaks have a lot of tension in them, and so some sawyers accordingly prefer the shorter length.
One other option for your friend to consider is to talk to some local timber framers re the oak (and there are a lot of timber framers in CT). Straight, long logs may yield higher profits if they are cut to the longer and larger timber frame lengths/sizes.
There is a Sawing and Drying Directory on this site that lists sawyers and kiln operators in most states:
Sawing and Drying Directory
From a pricing perspective, .35 per board foot is a good number to use for a budgetary estimate of kiln drying 4/4. However, some operators may charge more and some may be less; a lot depends upon the local electricity costs. Oak takes longer to dry than pine, so it will probably cost more. Again, talk to your local kiln operator to get the low-down for your area.
There are different pros and cons to air-drying oak prior to kiln drying it. However, the general consensus seems to be that immediate kiln drying may result in less defects. In a perfect world, the logs would be cut down on day 1, milled at the sawmill on day 2, and placed into the kiln on day 3. However, this can vary depending on a number of factors.
Regarding stickering, this depends on the kiln operator, but most that I know would prefer to receive the wood already stickered! Your friend needs to use dry (already seasoned) stickers and to place them so that they will line up with the supports on the kiln operator's kiln carts. If not, the pile will have to be restickered.
Gene Wengert is one of the experts on drying lumber. Search the archives for some of his posts, and also to download a copy of "Drying Hardwood Lumber," an excellent resource for your friend.
Logs this large are likely to yield a great deal of upper grade lumber. Such lumber is more valuable when at least 12' long. It would be best to consider flat sawing as well. Your extension person can help you with markets. The best opportunity is probably the smaller markets as they have higher prices, but it will take a while to sell this lumber.
The timber framers are a good place to start for marketing the center of these logs. If the logs are as good as you say, then a veneer buyer should be considered. If there is a chance for junk in the trees, this may determine the type of mill choice as well as markets.
I have seen lots of good logs on very fine machines messed up by a person who had no clue about sawing. I think the tree service guy would be better off hiring the sawing done and stick to dropping trees.
