Refinish Rosewood Antiques with Shellac

Advice on sourcing shellac for a period piece, and on refinishing for an old-style look. August 1, 2011

Question
I am preparing to refinish a set of high quality mid 19th century rosewood intricately carved parlor chairs (they had previously been inappropriately refinished). Typically, I brush shellac as follows: one coat 1# cut dewaxed dark, followed by one coat 2.5# dewaxed dark, then one coat 2.5# dewaxed orange, I then lightly sand and finally apply one coat of 2.5# dewaxed orange with Shellac Flat to achieve a satin finish. My desire is to accurately recreate the original finish, but also try to achieve a look that appears to have some age.

I have several questions:

1. I have observed that the original shellac on mid 19th century rosewood furniture has a maroon tint, does anyone have any knowledge that confirms this observation and any information about how to recreate this finish?

2. I have had very inconsistent results using Shellac Flat, first, it is difficult to predict the degree of shine, another complaint is in spite of frequent agitation, later pieces often end up shinier, this is especially true if I mix up a batch, then a portion is used a few days later. In this case, the pieces finished later are shinier. I had previously contacted Homestead Finishing, who sells this product, but they indicated that they haven’t received this kind of complaint. Any suggestions or comments?

3. Any comments or suggestions about my overall approach?

Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor A:
As to the maroon tint to the shellac; rouge shellac flakes are still available but hard to find. They will give you that maroon hew. Try shellac net or com (saw them somewhere on the net for sale.

I’ve never used Shellac flat and 80% of my work over the past 35 years has been with period furniture; unfortunately I and most I know who work with early period furniture do it the old arm braking, tedious way of rubbing them out with fine steel wool and the applying a soft wax to get that look. It’s just murder steel wooling inside those carved flowers and vines; you in for a long hall (better raise your price estimate).

Maybe thin out the first couple coats, it’s been my experience that shellac has an aversion to filling pours of the wood when it’s in a thick cut. Once there coated and the pours are filled. There is no more need for any more coats of finish.



From contributor H:
I am in agreement about 0000 rub out. You will kick the gloss up for a short while, but it does come down to a nice luster after a few months. Also agree about Shellac.net, if you use something like Gossener you will get the right color. I also spray on most of my shellac in a gravity gun. For those carvings, if you get a 3x6" shoe brush and rotten stone, you can get into the details. Also agree that you should up your price, not for the added labor but for the price increasing shellac prices.