Safely Cleaning Finished Cabinet Doors
Safely working your way up to a solvent that will dissolve the contaminant without damaging the finish can be tricky. June 30, 2014
Has anyone tried using lacquer thinner for cleaning finished cabinet doors?
From contributor X:
Some CV's are tougher than others and most CV's you can get away with a quick wipe, but I wouldn't get it too wet. I would experiment on a sample piece and see what you can get away with.
From contributor S:
Contributor X is correct. I have been known to pad clean slight overspray from the backs of doors and such next day using lt. However, perhaps the question(s) back to you should be: how old is the coating (is it cured?), and what are you trying to remove/clean off?
From the original questioner
The client's housekeeper applied a glaze over a top coat of CV. The topcoat was several weeks old when the glaze was added, and it's been approximately four weeks since the glaze was applied. Is there a better product I could use to take off the glaze? At this point I don't know what type of glaze was used.
From contributor X:
I would start with the mildest solvent like mineral spirits and carefully progress to stronger solvents if needed.
From contributor R:
Cleaning is about solubilizing the substance(s) you're trying to remove. Yes, you can use trial and error, but if a mistake is made and you damage the surface you are trying to clean then you have a whole new problem. If you know what you are trying to remove, then finding a solvent becomes definitive and not conjecture.
From contributor T:
Assuming the housekeeper has no experience in glazing or finishing for that matter, it is doubtful they could have used anything more than an off-the shelf product from Home Depot or Lowes, which would be a water-based product. For the record, I spray Valspar C/V all the time. When that stuff is cured fully you can throw the whole door in lacquer thinner and nothing’s going to hurt it.
From contributor M:
Start with mineral spirits. If nothing, then try Naptha. Then use lacquer thinner last. Be sure the home owner assumes the risk here, financially. Most CV's I've sprayed would handle a thinner wash just fine, but if you have a burnt/thin corner, it can definitely wrinkle up on you.
From Contributor H
Waterbase glaze over a solvent conversion varnish? There's no reason to try paint thinner or naptha on anything that's had a chance to cure, other than if you're trying to clean wax. My first chemical to try would be ammonia, and I would assume that this glaze is a waterbase. If you want to use acetone, test it first to see if it softens the finish. If it doesn't soften the finish with a few wipes that doesn't mean that you can give many wipes with no softening. Allow your CV to recover from your successive wipes before continuing (do a little at a time).