Simple Glazing with a Brush

A basic how-to on glazing by hand using a shop-mixed glaze. January 14, 2009

I'm trying to match a glaze that was a dry wipe, heavy and am having trouble getting the glaze heavy in the cracks like the original. Perhaps they used a flow pen that's listed in their brochure. I think it's an art supply type of re-fillable pen that they use to direct a line of glaze where they need it. Does anyone use such a device, and if so where did you get it and how do you use it?

Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor D:
I haven't used a flow pen, but you might want to look into a mini gravity feed HVLP gun called the Techline Jr. You can buy tips specially designed for glazing applications. One tip has a small, round pattern that allows you to direct your spray very precisely. The other tip looks like an inflation needle for a basketball. You don't use an air supply with this - the glaze kind of drools out of the tip when you trigger the gun. Glazes need to be pretty thin to use this one; MLC's Amazing Glaze works well. As a bonus, the Techline Jr. is a nice little gun for touch-up work or small spray-outs.

I guess the flow pen would work as long as you didn't have a lot to do - aren't they kind of small in terms of material capacity? Not sure how flexible they are regarding viscosity.

From contributor R:
I would give this a try and since I canít see the color youíre trying to match Iím just going to throw out a color. Take two table spoons of Raw Umber oil color UTC and put it in an empty Campbellís soup can (the small can). Pour 1/4 pint of Naptha into the can that has the Raw Umber in it. Stir it up real good (use the table spoon or wood stir-stick). Secure a cheap paint brush and dip it into the can that has the mixture of Raw Umber and Naptha, (that mixture is called a glaze) and apply the glaze to the areas you want colored. This mixture will dry quick but thatís not a problem.

Once it has fully dried, take some fine steel wool or a piece of burlap and wipe off the glaze thatís on the peaks and leave the glaze in the valleys.If by chance some steel wool residue ended up in the valleys blow it out with some compresses air.

After youíve done that and everything looks good to you spray a coat of sealer over the glazed area. Once the sealer has fully dried scuff it a bit and continue with your finish schedule.

From the original questioner:
That's what did it! I let my glaze dry heavy overnight and in wiping it off, it stays in the cracks, which is just what I was looking for.