Hi Everyone,
We just got our first cnc installed and I was wondering whether or not we should have the spoilboard screwed down to the vacuum table. I notice with the pumps on that it sucks flat to the gasket but not necessarily the table (It feels slightly squishy). Maybe I have the gasket standing too tall? It's within 1/16" above the table surface. Also, the gasket is rectangular. Is round better? Maybe this is all just normal. Also, I was thinking about doing a 2-piece spoiler using 3/4" trupan for the bottom with 1/4" or 3/8" regular mdf on top to slide off the cut pieces. How many of you guys do it this way? Does it work well? Thanks in advance for your help!
From contributor Mi
I use nylon screws to keep my spoilboards from moving when the vacuum is off. Nylon is a good choice because it will route or drill easily if someone makes a length offset mistake. If the vacuum is applied, the board should never feel squishy. As for gasket, round or rectangular should not matter. You only want a seal between the board and the table. When the vacuum is applied, the gasket should compress flat into the table channel. As long as the gasket fits flush to the table when compressed, you should be good to go.
From contributor Ch
Did you surface both sides of the spoil board? If so, what hp is vacuum pump?
From contributor ca
We are running a 3/4" mdf only. We are not screwing it down.
Yes, surface both sides. Paint the edges with 2 coats of Kilz or Autobody primer- is keep the vac concentrated through the face.
Do not push the spoil board in place lift it and make sure the gasket is not rolled out of place or damaged.
We are running a 5x12 and a sheet is 50.00.
Keep a couple on hand, you will need it as you will be using up the spoil board getting accustomed to the machine.
From contributor De
No screws. Spoil board has to be in contact with table or your depths will change on routes and holes.
we used to edgeband the sides of the mdf. For our work we didn't notice any difference so we dont do it. We start with 1" mdf, surface both side at .25 mm at a time and run it down to about 5mm before we change it
From contributor St
Thanks, Guys for the input! I won't screw the spoilboard down but might try to get the gasket to sit just a little bit lower. Also, I learned that there are different "hardnesses" of gaskets. I'll experiment with a softer one as well. I do want it to sit hard against the table so that it doesn't mess up the Z axis measurements. I think I might also need to flycut the mdf a bit more on the initial cut to get past the compressed surface. Lots of experimenting!
From contributor dy
I think you are right in regards to the height..please use link to find a gasket that might fit your machine..or contact us to discuss further should you have any questions. Regards Dylan
From contributor Mi
The phenolic table on my machine had a low spot (.1") and the gasket wouldn't compress fully - had to surface the table and reroute all the grooves, painful and time consuming to correct but until it was completed we weren't getting consistent cut depths.
From contributor Sc
I use 1/4 mdf and do nothing to the edges and just use the factory faces. I never have to change spoil board thickness in my programming. I never run a spoil board cutter and I have great vacuum. I used to use 3/4 inch. paint the edges and run spoil board cutters and change programs to allow for different thickness and then once in awhile I would load a program and forget to change the spoil board thickness.
The sheet just sits on the rubber gasket and never moves. This works the best for me so far, but everyone has their own likes and ideas.
