Hell all. Thanks in advance for your constructive responses (hopefully):)
We have been using adjustable hanger brackets/steel mounting rail for uppers (commercial). They've gotten a bit pricey and our distributor doesn't sell them any more. Plus price pressures have led me to consider a more conventional and less expensive method.
So, is it sufficient to have a 4" tall doweled stretcher (2 dowels) behind a 1/4" back panel (in a dado) and simply screw through to the studs or blocking? I'm just used to (and comfortable with) transferring the load to the "meat" of the cabinet side with a doweled in bracket. Could this become a failure point?
Or are there other safe and cost effective methods you'd recommend? Thanks again.
From contributor Al
We switched to beveled (French) cleats years ago when the hanger got too expensive.
From contributor To
Thanks Alan. That is what I'm thinking as well. Are those cleats simply doweled into the cab sides?
From contributor ca
We pocket screw and or dowel in a 5" nailer out of melamine top and bottom.
Sometimes installers notch the side of our cabinet and run a 1x4 on the wall
From contributor Al
Yes we dowel the piece in cabinet and knotch the ends so you can run a continuous cleat on the wall.
A-
From contributor Ji
3/4" backs doweled or confirmatted between sides.
From contributor To
Thanks to all for the responses. We'll go with the doweled stretchers then. Thought about 3/4 backs doweled in but the installers preferred the lighter weight. I guess we could do the notch for a continuous cleat. I was thinking "one less machining op to worry about" but......
From contributor Bi
I personally hate beveled French cleats because walls are NEVER flat, straight, and plumb and so the cleats bind. I use 3/4" cleats on the cabinets and the same piece on the walls and rabbet them 1/4" high x 1/2"+ wide to allow for wall variations. You only need 1/8" or 3/16" of meat on the lip to make it work well Lots easier, you can also slide the cabinets around on them.
