Textured glaze finish

Achieving a textured, glaze finish over stain. August 23, 2000

Q.
I'm working with a very particular customer; I've been making samples for a month now. I thought we had it nailed and then the husband chimes in, so we're starting all over.

On the latest sample, we wiped and removed stain over a sprayed enamel finish, added flyspeck and topcoated with dull Magnalac. The finish is "too smooth." She would like to see some texture similar to brushstrokes. I do not relish the idea of painting this job with a brush and don't know if that would provide the texture she's after.

Can we spray the enamel and then add brush strokes? She has a sample from the interior designer that appears to have an opaque coating that provides some texture for the glaze. Some of it remains in the corners of the raised panel door. Anyone heard of this product or is what I'm seeing remnants from the glazing or topcoat? Any ideas on how to achieve this look without spending all summer in the spray booth?

We currently use M.L. Campbell products but our rep is not very knowledgeable when it comes to anything out of the ordinary and is terrible at matching colors. My preference is to use products from the same supplier in this situation, but so far we have not been able to achieve the look the customer's after (this week!) using strictly M.L. Campbell.



It has been my experience when it comes to textures, one has more control if the texturizing is done in water-based product. I've done some in gesso and water-based primer. Campbell, if this is what you are going to use, has a water-based primer you can spray on, then do your glazing and sanding or sanding and glazing, whichever's easier for you, according to look the customers want. Do a sample, get your technique down.

Then, you ask, what about the topcoat? Seal with water-white vinyl sealer (Campbell's). Sand again to the smoothness and look desired. Then topcoat with Klearplast or Krystal. If you want to do a smoother, faster glaze base, use Campbell's Magnalac Primer.

Are the doors and frames going to be out of wood or MDF? If out of MDF, then the Campbell's post-cat primer might be the product you want, but I have been using Magnalac primer on MFD and it works O.K. for me; it just takes a little more sanding and double-coating, but it's worth it to me.

If you need a good texturized look, you need something that will stay open longer so you can "work" it. Let it dry first of course, then seal (vinyl), then glaze, then seal. Or you can let it dry, glaze and sand the glaze to the look desired, then seal. I've done it both ways; each gives you a different look and working quality, in my experience anyway. (I'm assuming this is in a light or white base color.)



This week the color is "linen" with a chocolate glaze. The glaze mostly wiped off, left to hang in recesses and corners.


Tint the primer or have it tinted a linen color. To make things go faster, have it tinted up in Magnalac primer. Spray it on. You might want to back off on your air so you can get the "textured" look.

Seal it with vinyl sealer, sand smooth, and apply chocolate glaze. Wipe it off to the look desired, reseal with vinyl, sand smoother. Then top coat with Klearplast or Krystal. I use Klearplast a lot on my work.



I also have done many a gesso finish (the Italians also call it Pennellabili or brushable tints). These brushable tints also leave a slight texture kind of like a gesso finish, but not as smooth as the glazed finishes we in the U.S. are used to.
Bob Niemeyer, forum moderator