This is one finish that has managed to elude me through the years. They are asking for a black finish with distressing and rub-through to show some deep brown stain grade wood below. I'm taking an educated (and somewhat wild) guess at the time involved in this finish. Would anyone with experience be willing to either give me a percentage of time and/or cost upgrade for this finish from, let's say, a simple stain and topcoat job?
Alder door stained = x amount of hours
Door above = x hours x 2
From contributor B:
Figure at least twice the work and finish as you would do a regular stain and finish door.
In my book that's an eight step finish schedule. Others may say it's more because of the extra coats. I believe each step in a finish schedule should be assessed at ten minutes per step per cabinet door and/or drawer front and/or piece of trim, etc. Granted we don't spend ten minutes for every step, but this accounts for the time it takes to steam out dents, fill gauges with putty, re-sand after stain reveals mill marks, fill knot holes, re-glue broken joints, position loose panels, sand poorly routed profiles, sand rough end grain, sand glue spots, etc, not to mention the uncountable dilemmas that the weather conditions and chemical invariance may bestow upon us.
Ten minutes per finish schedule step; I stand behind it strongly. It may sound expensive to some, but it should be. We're not just making the woodwork pretty. We're making it scratch resistant, water resistant, chemical resistant, as well as preserving our art.
Sand to 150 grit.
Spray stain or NGR to areas to be rubbed through.
1 coat of Krystal.
Sand 320 grit sponge.
1 coat of Clawlock tinted to correct color.
Sand 320 grit sponge.
2nd coat Clawlock tinted to correct color.
Rub through areas gently with 220 grit paper.
Sand entire door with 320 grit sponge.
1 Coat of Krystal.
Color to be rubbed through should be a fairly solvent friendly finish. If you are using a solvent based system, use a tinted vinyl sealer. Let that dry to the touch and do your rub through with your solvent of choice. Something hot and fast works best; it will let you rub without having to go too hard and risk getting through the clear. We use waterbased and our primer and acetone to rub through. Then 320 and scrubby pad. Clear coat as usual and you're done.
This is not the fastest way to do this finish, but it has served me well for years. I have done this using MLC system with Krystal as well as the Fuhr waterbased system.