Question
I currently use Gemini finishes, stains, glazes and conversion coatings. I am building a set of cherry cabinets. The customer would like to have a uniform darker cherry color. I suggested painting. That isn't an option.
The customer gave me a sample brochure about cabinet finishing that has steps for finishing that goes like such. Equalizer stain applied to balance base color, toner applied to establish color uniformity, deep penetrating stain to reveal grain.
I discussed this with the guys that do my color matching, only to be told they haven't heard of such products. Am I asking for the impossible? Need to find another color matching source?
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor P:
Has this cherry spent any time in the sun? Also, how much sapwood is present? There are tons of recipes for making a dark cherry or an antique cherry. We do things sort of the slow way, only spraying clears (and I just started doing that), so this might not be what you're looking for.
I start with leaving it in the sun for several days, then letting it sit around the shop for several weeks. I'll seal it with de-waxed shellac, Zinnser's usually, wipe it with gel stain, either Bartley's Pennsylvania cherry or General's Candlelight. If it needs to go darker, more gel. If I want a different tone and want to keep a curl or other figure, I don't use the gel, but use Transtint in water. I like using the Oxford 9000 for clear, but will be trying other products in that line soon.
Personally, it breaks my heart to stain cherry. I think it looks its best after being suntanned, then with the shellac and a clear or even just wax. Also I think that when you stain cherry, it turns very muddy over time. This might not be a problem with cabinets that are replaced every so often, but I just can't bring myself to do it to furniture.
Assuming that you want to develop the necessary skills, you will want to practice on some leftover pieces first. You'll need to learn to do your own tinting and this is a pretty forgiving application to learn on. A pint of toner will do a whole kitchen, but you'll want a couple of colors. Build your colors on the light areas in multiple layers, allowing the glow from the light colored wood surface to mimic the depth of the naturally dark areas. It helps to add a bit of faux graining on the lighter areas, as otherwise their natural graining may be overly muted by the dark toning.
When you get to the point where you find yourself spending a lot of time admiring your practice work, you will be about ready to start on the cabinets.
Contributor C, what brand of toners do you use? Do you have a color recommendation for starters? Do you spray, wipe or brush on the toner?
This finish was a lot of work, but produced a very nice deep brown red color on the wood, and it gave the customer what they wanted. It was labor intensive, and the hand applying was the worst part of the job, but without the hand application, I couldn't get the grain to pop enough for my liking. Maybe there is an easier way to get the grain to pop, without splotchiness on the wood, but I don't know how myself.
Step1: Apply ML Campbell Traditional Cherry stain
Step 2: Apply ML Campbell Microton Cherry toner
Step 3: Apply one coat of finish tinted with above toner
Step 4: Scuff and apply two topcoats
Resultant color had depth, good graining and an even cherry color that was pleasing to the eye without being too brown and muddy.
I use Sherwin-Williams dyes for almost all my finishing that I can, as it makes things go much smoother, and I don't have to wait between stain and the conversion varnish (Plastofix). Anyway, I mixed some SW black vinyl sealer with some yellow and red dye concentrates into some acetone for my stain. Spray this on, then a coat of Plastofix. Wait a half hour to dry and then scuff it with a 3M sanding sponge. Then spray another light coat of stain, and then a final coat of Plastofix. Simple, effective, and the customer loves it.
I do have to caution you that if you're using these SW dye concentrates, you need a *very* good gram scale. We were able to get a used one from a local pharmacist that's accurate down to 1/100th of a gram, but that is a little overkill. We tried using a cheap digital diet scale from Wal-Mart, but that gave us more problems than you want to hear about for color uniformity.
My usual schedule is:
1) Lockwood WB dye (Antique Cherry is a good one)
2) Zinsser SealCoat
3) Light sanding
4) WB pigment stain, usually diluted in water. Spray on, wipe off. This step is optional, but if the cabinets are going to get a lot of sunlight, you should consider it because dyes alone tend to fade from UV exposure.
5) Clearcoat. I use Target, ML Campbell WB, Fuhr, etc.
6) Glaze, usually Golden products Asphaltum color. Brush on, wipe off.
7) Final topcoat.
If toning is required to even out the color, it can be done by adding TransTint dye to the topcoat.
Just a word of caution - if there is a lot of direct sunlight in that kitchen, watch the amount of dyes you use. They will pop out like fluorescent colors and look way off. Just let the customer know in advance what the color will look like under different light sources. Sometimes the customer can be finicky without prior knowledge.
