Upgrading Sliding Table Saw Fences and Stops
Woodworkers discuss ways to build advanced table saw fences or adapt standard parts from other saws. December 31, 2013
Question
I have an older SCMI (SI12) sliding table saw. The crosscut fences is the old style. The stops do not flip up and out of the way. I'd like to upgrade it to the modern flip top style. I cannot find any manufacturer that makes an upgrade stop gauge system that is at least 59"L. I don't need anything fancy like TigerStop, just a simple manual slide and flip up. Any info?
Forum Reponses
(WOODnetWORK Forum)
From contributor J:
You could buy a couple of the Kreg stops. They may need a little modification to fit your fence extrusion. Or you could get the top track and attach that to your fence. You can do a lot with the stuff from 80/20 also. I've built many a shop fixture or jig from their products.
From the original questioner:
I have looked at the
Kreg stops and tracks. Unfortunately the tracks only come 48" at the most. I didn't want to piece it together. As for the stops, maybe I could alter them to fit my track. I'll have to look into it more.
From the original questioner:
The rail that the stops travel on and lock down to is on the vertical surface that your work piece butts up to. Even if I could make a
Kreg stop fit the slot, it would be still in the way. I need to find a track that is 59"L that can be mounted on the top side.
From contributor J:
You could buy an aluminum T-slot extrusion to replace what is there and use
Kreg stops or probably anybody else's.
From the original questioner:
Now I'm getting somewhere. I can make that work. I was hoping to find some system or kit that I could fasten down instead of fabricating my own. I can't believe there is not a company selling a system for this type of application.
From contributor K:
Take a look at Accurate Technology's ProStop. Mostly, look at the guide rail. From pics of a SI-12 it looks similar. I have this rail so we can compare measurements if you like.
From the original questioner:
Thanks for the lead. I just contacted ProScale. I'll see what they have to offer.
From contributor M:
You could buy the fence from whichever brand/model of saw you like as a repair part. These fences are easy to mount and you could likely do it with no mods at all. Or you might have to drill a couple holes. Be careful with the extrusions not manufactured for use as a precision fence. A good fence is machined for flatness after it is extruded.
From the original questioner:
Thanks for the ideas. I've been talking to Hermance Machinery in Williamsport, PA. I've been starting to take that approach. Except it's a bit more involved than just drilling holes and bolting a fence down. I need to make the locating cams fit so the fence can be squared up or changed to angles. Thanks for pointing out the flatness issue. I didn't think about that.
From contributor S:
Normand in Canada has an aluminum flip stop system that is surprisingly robust. I cannot deflect them, unlike the
Kreg jigs. I think they sell for about 75 each and then there is the track. If you elect to buy T slot aluminum for a fence, buy two sizes - one that telescopes inside the other for the extension.
From contributor J:
Do you have a link for those stops? Can't locate them on the website since we don't know what they are called or who makes them.
From contributor S:
Annoyingly they seem to have no name. Apparently Normand has them made by someone. They mount to a slotted track that is then mounted to a stainless steel rail that is sloped (only needed if you want to mount them to a radial saw, etc.). Just call Normand in Mississauga and explain that you are interested in literature regarding their aluminum stops for radial saws, etc. They are sometimes in their sale flyers so they should be able to direct you to a page. I like them because they are only about 2 inches wide total. Wider than the stop portion of large flip stops, but the overall width is smaller. Meaning you could have multiple stops on the rail close together.
