Waterborne Glazes over a Pre-Cat Finish
Many water-borne and solvent-borne (oil-based) finishes are mutually compatible, and coats may be alternated (with certain cautions). May 27, 2008
Question
Will there be a problem using waterbased glaze with a pre-cat finish? I also need to leave heavier amounts of glaze in the fluted parts of the face frame. Does that have to dry completely before spraying clear? This is my first time doing this finish, so any advice is welcome.
Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor L:
Why use water base glaze? I recommend that you use a glaze from the same vendor that you get your finishes.
From contributor T:
Amazing Glaze by ML Campbell. It's a lacquer based material and dries quickly. Very workable with a scotch brite or firm blending brush; a very fine mist works best. You without a doubt will want to practice on a sample board first right to the top coat stage. There is dissipation of the glazing depending on your top coat. Samples, samples, samples.
From contributor C:
I've been using WB glaze with pre-cat for a while now. I always let it dry overnight or longer. Both materials come from same supplier.
From contributor A:
In a pinch you can make a very simple glaze by mixing mineral spirits and UTC that will be more compatible than the water base. Spray or brush on and manipulate or allow to dry and wipe off with a scotchbrite pad - very easy to remove. On the other hand, I have used water base under pre-cat when finishes were still bordering old school technology. Today I can imagine or hear the sound of pop rocks in the finish just before the crinkles appear. But then again I'm from California where real finishes are hard to find and all things are possible. Nonetheless, I don't think you should have a problem if you allow for proper drying and you live in Bangladesh. Try a sample first. If nothing happens, go for it.
From contributor Y:
Other than very hot finishes which can melt previous layers, there are very few serious compatibility issues between oil and water base finishes. I very often alternate them deliberately. Certainly most water base finishes which have quality adhesion characteristics can be applied over most any oil base finish (assuming that it is well cured) with little risk of problems. Compatibility is important, but also extremely common.
Certainly your glaze should dry completely before applying additional coats (this is a general truth for most all coats... that they should be dry before recoating). There are some special conditions when you could recoat over a partially dried layer but these are advanced maneuvers and if you don't know the answers, you are not likely ready for that level of work.
