Q.
Have you read the article in the Nov/Dec 2001 Tree Farmer magazine by Jim Conway, "The True Tally"? I must be missing something--I have never scaled a log and gotten a 100% overrun! I scale the log as honest as I can. I use the 1/4 int. scale. I am fair to my loggers. Yes, I may get some overrun, but it makes up for unseen defects. The northern red oak I paid $400 a m for had a bad heart. Nothing on the outside gave me a clue--I have never seen a log like it. What am I missing?
Forum Responses
I use the Doyle scale and consistently double my footage, sometimes even triple it in small straight logs. I'm fair to the loggers I deal with. I buy a bark and they give a bark. In the small logs (7inches and under), if they are straight, I'll pay the logger log measure plus the length of the log to make it worth their while to fool with them and I still double my money after they are sawn. It depends a lot on the way you saw. I saw conservatively, so I gain a lot of footage.
I've bought spotted oak similar to what you described. It looks good on 4 sides and the ends look good but when it's opened, it's full of carpenter ants that ruin the lumber. Sawing it is like shooting craps.
Sometimes when scaling, we deduct a certain amount of volume from the gross scale described above to obtain a net footage. There are specific rules on how to do this.
Example: If you have a log that is 13.7 inches for one diameter and 14.9 for the other at the small end, inside the bark, and the log is 12' 8" long, what is the footage using the International 1/4 Inch Scale? Using the Doyle Scale?
Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor
In inches take the inside measure, in feet take the length of log. Divide inside measure by 1.4 then square the number. Multiply by length and divide by 12 and you have bdft. (About same as 1/4 International.)
I find that if I do the number by 1.3 instead of 1.4 I get real close to what I will get from a good straight log. A 14" x 12' log I would expect about 120 bdft of lumber.
Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor
It is a small, picky item, but usually overrun is called 100% when you have the same board footage lumber produced as the logs were scaled at. If you have twice as much lumber as the log scale, then the overrun is 200%. This understanding may help when you read some publications that discuss overrun. (In other words, 25% overrun is terrible as it means that you only got 25% of the footage that the log scaled!)
Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor
When I log and buy Southern yellow pine I try to get them 25 ft long and I cut them down to 8's, 12's and 16's and sometimes I saw them as 24's. I add 2 inches to the measure and 30% to the ticket for long logs. I saw from the butt and get every board in there. Last load I paid for 1560 bdft (that's with added) and sawed out a tad over 3000 bdft. Next load I will add 40% because fair is fair.
If the woodland owner still thinks they are being cheated by the "scale" they can always go out and buy all the equipment, pay for the insurance, and then be able to tell the stories about "the tree that almost got me".
If any timber owner thinks he is being ripped off, that will not change based on the scaling system used. If an accurate scale were used, then there would be lower prices paid per BF, but the load would sell for the same money. Plus, since smaller logs require more cost to produce lumber, the accurate scale would have a sliding price scale to cover the added costs for smaller logs. I think that right now, scaling covers these extra handling costs but underestimating with small diameters.
Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor
Once the price per foot (measured across the corners of the little end of the stave) was established, the measuring began. The buyer ran a 100' cloth measuring tape and dad would mark them off as they were being measured. The first stave was measured and then the tape pulled to accumulate the width of the next and so on.
If the buyer thought he had to bid too high on the price per foot, he'd make up for it by "measuring his thumbs" - this is, you'd get shorted the width of his thumbs each time he advanced the tape to measure the next bolt. Other tricks they used were to just "snap" the tape and not advance it at all. In extreme cases, they would actually pull the tape in the other direction now and then to reduce the total footage. Another trick was to take a new tape and soak it in water, stretch it and let it dry. It would be about 110 feet long. After time, it would shorten again to at or less than 100'. Every time the buyer came out with a new tape, Dad knew he was going to have a light load.
Dad is the most honest man I've ever known and never tried to "put one over" on the buyer by bringing in junk they couldn't use. Got to the point where he would pull into the lot and the buyer would ask him how many feet he had on (Dad always measured before he took them to market) and what he thought they were worth. If they agreed, he'd send him on to unload while he had the check made out. If the buyer wasn't busy, he'd go through the whole song and dance mostly just to visit.
In the end, the buyer paid what he wanted to for the product.
% overrun = (lumber yield/log scale) - 1 * 100
0% would be lumber yield equal to log scale.
100% overrun would be double the log scale.
Source: the Forestry Handbook
I live in Oregon and we use Scribner scale.
As for overrun, when I am cutting dimension lumber out of Douglas fir, I count on getting at least 35% overrun on short logs.
If logs are scaled long (in this area a common length for a long log is 42 ft--his is the length most of the big mills want), I will get from 100 to 200% overrun.
The job I am just finishing is Douglas fir logs 20, 16, 12, 10 and 8 ft. The diameter is no more than 16 in in the 20 ft logs and many of the others are as small as 6 in. I am getting over 100% overrun.