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Hussey Knife Alignment11/4/15
Does anyone else have trouble aligning Hussey Knives in their William's and Hussey Moulder?
We bought a new Hussey about 2 years ago and use it occasionally for our curved mouldings.
I have found that there is 'slop' in between the hole size of the steel and the bolts used to secure the knives to the shaft bar. This allows for misalignment.
Any tips to improve this problem?
Thanks in advance :)
You need to press the knives back against the backstop and over towards the post when installing.
Then tighten the bolt furthest from the post first to have less twist torque on the knife as the bolt is tightened.
Use a socket on a ratchet to do the tightening. Once you are adept at the process you can go to an air ratchet.
The knife place that makes my knives told me that they use a flat head allen screw and it has a tapered bottom which will self center the cutter with the hole. Been using them for years now. Works great.
If I knew mine were ground with the flat head bolt, I'd use that. Never heard about that before. What I do is cut a small spacer that fits between the casting and the edge of the cutter. Rotate the head and use that spacer to set the second knife. I suppose a magnetic base dial indicator could do the same thing.
Rich, for a couple of buck you should go out and get the bolts. Give it a shot and see if it's aligned properly. If it is then you'll save a lot of time and aggravation in your setup.
I don't worry anymore. All I do is put the cutter on the arbor and tighten down the bolts, done. Perfect everytime.
If the company that makes your knives uses any other method other then centering on the holes then any alignment procedure you use will be flawed because of their non aligned setup.
Ask them how they do their setup. Mine actually have a W&H arbor for their grinding setup. They brought me in and showed me how they do it and that's when they suggested to me that I use those bolts because it's what they used.
And in reality that is the only true reference there is on the knife. Center of the hole. Everything else can be a variable. All that has to happen is one knife being cut slightly longer then the other and the reference off the edge of the knife is gone.
What? You push the cutter towards the post, tighten and that's it! We've over 500 pairs of knives - used our Hussey for decades and never, ever had an alignment issue. Don't overthink this - these Hussey machines have been used by thousands successfully for several decades with no alignment issues when just following this simple rule - push to post and tighten. Never, ever use the edge of the knife. Only the holes can guarantee perfect alignment. Period. BH Davis nailed it with his procedure. I find LeoG's slant on this interesting, sounds like that would also be a simple solution. Never thought about a tapered screw head. Duh! Thanks Leo! :-)
Thank you folks for your response!
I will try Bernie's recommendation first - if that doesn't do it I will look into the tapered bolts - also a great idea!
I like the machine - but I am used to running a Weinig all day - so it's a different machine for sure. Good machine.
Oh - one more question. We bought the elliptical Guide when we bought the Hussey - my hopes were that I could use that for all of our curves - both Elliptical and radius. I find though that even with a fair bit of tension on the bearings it still has a bit of a 'jerky' feed as it goes through causing quite a bit of chatter / knife mark on the part. Has anyone else noticed this?
Loosen the pressure on the rollers
On the feed rollers?
Yes, the feed rollers. I was doing an elliptical molding and noticed the same as you. I took off most of the pressure so the material could slip a bit and it solved the issue. I have original rollers on my vintage machine (gray) and they aren't really that sticky. But they were sticky enough to cause issues when the tight radius came through. I usually have my pressure cranked full for straight feed, and this was way to much for running ellipticals. I've never run a true radius though the elliptical jig, but I assume it's just the same, you need a bit of slip so the molding can mover across the roller as it changes positions from the radii.
Bernie Davis has it right , never had a problem doing it that way , though I wonder if the problem is in the way the knives were made . Jim at Ct saw does the w & h knives different , I believe he drills his own holes in the steel so that there are no half holes and never any alignment issues .
One thing not mentioned is that you have a "non jointed" machine and only one knife is cutting anyway.
Very true Bruce, but the reason for my frustration with the design was because when the knives are not aligned in a matching axial position fine detail areas of a profile would cause a 'line' to appear. Looking much like a line that appears when you hit a staple when running lineal mouldings. Not good :)
I have not had any problems with my W&H getting my knives from Ballew.
I second the knife to post side and tighten (for alignment), and loosening the feed roller pressure (for radius work). That's the way I did it for years with two separate W&H's...both worked like a charm, and we never had alignment issues. All our knives came from Weinig...and they bored the knife stock to match the W&H hole pattern.
They have two sets of springs and rollers. The one that comes with the machine has tight springs and is designed for single pass cutting. They sell a different set with looser springs and different rollers for 2-pass cutting. We use that for doing radius work.
I like Leo's flat head screw alignment idea. Just because "we've always done it this way" does not mean its the best way. The flat heads take the human mistake problem out of the equation.