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gluing Boards for shiplap5/9/19
I thinking about Gluing 3 5/8'' maple boards and then dado a 1/8'' groove where the joint is to make it look like ship lap. also thought about grooving the back side to relieve pressure so maybe the warping would be minim.I did this once before but didn't groove the back side and had to replace the doors.( even with 2'' boards screwed to the back.This job has 3 5/8'' ship lap on all ends. The customer does not want MDF. Also thought about running ribs up the back of the ends and pocket drilling each board. Any thoughts or recommendations?
How big would this panel be? What kind of door?
Some doors are 18'' x 29''. some are end panels 25'' x 36'' one is attached to a Stud plywood that I will build 144'' x 36''
Why can't you do real shiplap?
Wood moves. What you are proposing is almost certain to lead to problems unless you use MDF, plywood, etc.
Why not a non glued tongue and groove?
We have decided to go ahead and do Tongue and groove. Which is like we usually done. But we usually glue the back side of the boards to the plywood box. And seal the back side of the ship lap. Does anybody see a problem? We have made it this way several times and haven't had any problems.
Why do you want to glue the boards to plywood? That always leads to problems. Plywood doesn't move much with changes in RH but solid wood thicker than veneer does, so if you glue thick wood to plywood it will bend, split, or otherwise move to accommodate that change. If the RH doesn't change everything will be fine. In the real world, however, RH changes quite a lot from Summer to Winter most places.
so Just nail ship lap and it should be fine? What about grooving the back of the boards to help with cupping?
Many, many years ago I built a red oak kitchen with 3/4" thick solid oak board doors. Boards were vertical and gave a V-groove appearance.
As per your idea I ran the Vs on the glue lines and then ran an 1/8" groove 1/2" deep on center of each V from the face.
Then I flipped the doors and ran a series of 2nd 1/8" grooves 1/2" deep from the back. Each of these groove was parallel to and offset about 3/16" from the front face grooves.
Finally I put a "Z" pattern stretcher system (cross bucks) on the back to hold the panel flat. A single screw through each stretcher was centered on each vertical board in the glue up. This allowed each vertical board to move independently with the front/rear 1/8" slots acting as a baffle.
The owner I built it for kept the house probably another 10 years after the installation. I never had a call back in that time period. As to current condition close to 30 years later I have no idea.
I like BHD's solution. It takes care for the movement problem.