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Sealcoat grain filler5/24/16
I have been reading.... A lot. Simple question about steps to finishing red oak.
1. Minwax dark walnut stain
Will these steps work for finishing out red oak? Thank you
If your wanting glass smooth, pore fill,... No.
The grain filler may be the best of the four but none of the others will work without an excruciating amount of work and potential for a failed finish.
Why wouldnt you just grain/pore fill conventionally and then finish?
Thanks for the response. I have seen conflicting statements about when to fill from several websites and from the directions on the crystalac itself. I have a customer that wants a dark walnut stain on the oak. My thoughts were to stain and let cure, then apply the dewaxed shellac to give me something under the grain filler so when I sand down the filler I don't hit the stain. Then, finish with the poly.
If I could apply the filler first then the stain then poly I wouldn't be confused. i just don't see how you could apply the stain and then the filler directly over the stain and not expect to sand through and mess up the stain. I appreciate any and all suggestions. This is my first time working to get a glass smooth surface on oak. Thanks everyone
You remove the "set" paste wood filler with a piece of burlap. Sanding it off would certainly create problems.
Riddle me this....why Red Oak and not another species of Oak, like White Oak.
I guess the seal cote filler requires sanding it off. Are you familiar with Paste Wood Filler which is an oil based product, manufactured to fill the open pores of Oak and Walnut and Mahogany etc...
Do you have a picture of what your looking to achieve?
Are you just wanting to just fill the pores or add a contrasting color to the pores to compliment the Minwax stain?
Says here to trowel it and then sand if multiple coats
Her pockets aren't that deep <--- for your riddle
I'm just wanting a clear pore fill. That's why I'm looking at the crystalac. My thoughts are stain will stick to wood. The dewaxed shellac will be good over the stain and will also be compatible with the water based filler. The poly will be good for the finish.
Her personal pockets may not be that deep so I hope yours are. To achieve a Piano type finish on Oak it will be a lot easier for you if you investigate alternative coatings.
2part Urethane's may cost more for the coatings but save you quite a bit in labor costs.
Check out some of the reviews on Amazon under Crystalac Water Based Grain Filler.
Just a thought.
I appreciate it Robert. So what other alternatives do you suggest? Like I said this is the first time I've had to get oak smooth like this.
If you do professional work, why buy a big box store stain? LOTS better options out there than Minwax. Minwax takes way too long to dry, especially if it soaks way into the pores of red oak. Of your 4 steps, you are using the products of 4 different companies. Go with one professional supplier for compatibility. Sherwin-Williams or ML Campbells for me.
I would agree with Rich in using one manufacturers product but even with that some of the best finishers/refinishers out there use dewaxed shellac (sealcoat) extensively early in the process which would void any manufacturer warranty.
If it were me I would use the tried and true process of stain, then tint a paste filler to the color your after, brush it on, let it dry a bit, and burlap it off, packing the pores as you go. Then proceed with your finish schedule. Behlen, or ML Campbell are common fillers.
Moving away from Minwax a good thing and fairly easy especially if you get setup with an MLC distributor.
regardless if you stain first or not, first seal the surface with dewaxed shellac washcoat. This prevents the filler from staining the wood. After the filler is dry 24 hours, then seal again. Watch f=or compatibility between oil and water layers. Also, if you are going to stain first, and if you are going to use a pigmented oil stain, give this plenty of time to dry since the open oak pores take a bit longer.
Stain, let dry, hose on a high build lacquer sealer(two coats) back sand without sanding through. Repeat until pores are filled. Topcoat with a compatible top coat. Dont over complicate things. Especially if the client is budget minded. As long as you stay away from water based stuff the pores should fill relatively quickly
i didnt want to commentat first due to the proposed use of minwax .......... but the above post is spot on.
and id also like to add that Rich is correct as well.. stick with the same manufacturer. in this case, sayerlack is compatible with and provided by Sherwin Williams which would give you a far superior stain and complete system.